Dubrovnik 2009 - Old Town walls

Dubrovnik Travelogue 2009

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We all get up reasonably early for the next stage of our trip, Dubrovnik. Breakfast is the first on the list of things to do for the day, however and we’re greeted by standard fare at the Palace Derossi (breakfast is included): breads, spreads, ham, cheese, sliced tomatoes, eggs, tea, coffee, juice.

After checking out at the Derossi which involved a slight delay as their credit card machine wasn’t working (though this seems to be a common problem, according to TripAdvisor…hmmmm), we again make the very short walk to the bus station.

We eagerly await the 9am bus to Dubrovnik and sit attentively to make sure we don’t miss the bus, or haven’t misunderstood the destination of a coach that’s already sitting in the station. (As it later becomes crammed with Japanese tourists, it becomes apparent that it’s a local transfer bus.)

15 minutes late, the Dubrovnik bus finally pulls into the station and 30 people suddenly emerge from nowhere (where were they hiding?!) and run to the bus, piling on it as quick as they can. Seeing as the bus seemed already completely full anyway, these extra people make it packed to the rafters and the bus driver turns us – and our large bags and backpacks – down and doesn’t let us board.

What to do? The next bus was to depart over 3 hours away, which would mean 3 less hours in Dubrovnik…and the same problem as described above might occur again! Some quick thinking by my friend means we hop onto a local bus to Split instead and try our options there. (The number 37 bus which runs from Trogir to Split – it also goes past Split Airport, so would be the local bus to take from the airport if you’re heading to either of these two destinations or somewhere in between.) This takes us to Split suburban bus station, which means we still need to hot foot it or local bus it – or taxi it, in our case because of our luggage – over to the main bus station by the port.

Arriving just 10 minutes too late for the 10.30am bus, we have no choice but to wait for the next one at 11.45am. But this does give us an opportunity to cool down with refreshing drinks at the cafe there, as well as watching all the comings and goings on the large Jadrolinija and Blueline ferries in the port.

Our 11.45am Promet Makarska bus arrives and sets off promptly – we’re on our way to Dubrovnik…finally! The journey goes fairly smoothly, aside from the stop at Makarska where far too many people get on and there’s a very minor squabble over seats. (As there’s too many passengers for seats, and some have the same seats allocated.) Most passengers disembark by the time we reach Baska Voda, so an emptier bus means an opportunity to stretch out.

We pass through the Neum Corridor (in Bosnia) on the way to Dubrovnik, and get our passports checked with a brief glance at the photo page on both entry and exit. We also stop for about 20 minutes in Neum at a small supermarket (next to a restaurant that seemed to serve giant fish – what a shame there wasn’t time to eat there!), so we stock on some snacks and drinks.

Just after 5pm – and therefore a little late – we finally arrive in the magical city of Dubrovnik. The bus station there is situated in an area of the city called Gruz, so you don’t really see much of the beauty of Dubrovnik as you arrive at this pretty standard bus station building. (As we disembark we immediately get hassled by the typical “old ladies offering rooms” – though they start to desist as a couple of policemen swiftly tell them off.)

We then head towards our accommodation, and for the only time in our trip we’re separated into two groups of two. Two of us are staying just outside the Old Town, whilst my two friends stay in the Fresh Sheets hostel right in the Old Town which, I’m told, was very nice though the walk up to it (numerous steps are involved) with heavy backpacks was the only downer!

The Old Town in Dubrovnik is truly stunning – whether you’re inside it enjoying the sights, or are viewing it from the outside. It’s really one of those places that you have to see for yourself, and I’d strongly urge everyone to do so, if they get the opportunity! I can also see why the city is so popular, as well as being busy – so do be aware that if you go in the height of summer (July and August), there will be crowds. Not quite as manic as somewhere like Venice, but still quite bustling. (Incidentally, one of our common thoughts was that Dubrovnik reminded us of Venice – without the canals, of course.)

After a walk around town, we head to the most eastern tip of the Old Town and sit by sea for a bit, enjoying the sunset and watching people go by. (We also admire a waterpolo “court” marked out in the sea there and contemplate, for a brief moment, jumping in for a game.)

As we head towards dinner, we see a “pirate” ship reenactment as pirates storm land and fling a couple of sailors into the sea. Just fun and japes though, and all in aid of a party later on that night!

Lokanda Peskarija is our choice for dinner although it seems to be everyone else’s too as we have to queue (only for about 10-15 minutes, however) to be seated. I can see the reason for the queues – the restaurant has a great location right by the harbour, and the simple menu (seafood, of course) provides delicious food too.

Our choices for the night include shrimp, prawns and mussels which were all wolfed down, helped by the usual 1 litre carafe of house wine for the table. (Upon asking for a carafe of tap water, we amusingly get told this isn’t possible as carafes are “only used for wine!”).

Post-dinner involves another ice cream walk much like in Trogir (walk in Dubrovnik + ice cream = heaven) – one scoop of ice cream is a decent 7 Kunas. Passing by St Blaise’s Church, we stumble upon a group of French students doing a little concert performance, and watch them for a while.

Deciding a little nightlife may be the order of the day, we head to Buniceva Poljana square, which seems to be the location for every bar in town. Well, not quite, but there’s certainly plenty of them here, with all of the tables (and each bar’s music) seeming to merge into one giant, bubbling mass of people in the middle of the square – so definitely the place to go for some nighttime fun in Dubrovnik. (And if you’re a lazy bar-hopper, you won’t have to travel far to make a night of it.) There is also the Trubadur Hard Jazz Cafe in one corner which plays live music, if that’s more your kind of thing.

We all opt for a drink surely no holidaymaker can resist – a giant, 4-person cocktail – before we call it a night on our first day in Dubrovnik.

Dubrovnik Travelogue Day 2

Morning Sightseeing

The next day, we decide to do a bit of cultural sightseeing first off and decide to do the walk of the Dubrovnik City Walls. There’s a few entrances dotted around town, and we choose the one near Onofrio’s Great Fountain at the end of Stradun.

Purchasing tickets (50 Kunas each for adults) from a separate ticket office (not from the guy at the entrance – he’ll only turn you away!) we climb the steps to the walls. Now, we made the mistake many people do if they are there in summer – which is to do the walk in the heat of the day. This will only exhaust you, so it’s much better to go in the late afternoon. Whatever time of day you go, however, you’ll encounter little stands selling drinks and ice cream, a little café and some souvenir shops along the walk. Overall, a great bit of sightseeing in Dubrovnik; the views are simply amazing.

Beach time

Dubrovnik Travelogue 2009 - Old Town walls
View from the Old Town walls

Following a quick lunch at Konoba Amoret (more seafood – as if you couldn’t guess!) we decide the only thing we could possibly do in the afternoon was…to head to the beach for a much needed refreshing dip in the sea. Banje beach is a public beach, and very close to the Old Town (just east of it, close to Ploce Gate). As it’s a public beach, it understandably does get pretty busy but we found there was still enough room to set up camp with our towels and assorted beach items. There’s a special roped off area in the sea for swimming, so you needn’t worry about encountering speed boats and the like. And Eastwest Beach Club [now Banje Beach Club], a trendy bar (which turns into a trendy club at night) is situated right there too if you need a little light refreshment.

For dinner that night, we chose Dubrovacki Kantun which is recommended by a number of guides including Time Out Dubrovnik. Most of us go for the variation on a seafood theme (i.e. more seafood, but different choices then we’ve had before), whilst I try the “Dubrovacki sporki makaruli” (essentially pasta with chopped beef in tomato sauce), supposedly a traditional Dalmatian recipe from the 15th century.

Dubrovnik Travelogue Day 3

Day 3, sadly, doesn’t really consist of much time in Croatia as it’s the day we have to fly home. Due to various issues (availability; high flight prices), we find ourselves having to fly withCroatia Airlines to Zagreb, and then with Wizzair from there to London Luton. It all luckily runs very smoothly, including getting a taxi from Pile Gate to Dubrovnik Airport (price: 220 Kunas) and we just about have enough time at Zagreb Airport for a snack and a bit of duty-free shopping. (Tip: if you’re after magazines and newspapers – including English language ones – they’re only sold in a shop before immigration.)

And that, ladies and gentlemen, is where our trip sadly came to an end. All of us had a fantastic time, thoroughly enjoying ourselves at every stage, and my friends who hadn’t been to Croatia before stated that they’d definitely return very soon!

Accommodation in Bol

Catamaran direct from Split Airport to Bol

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Following on from the launch of a new catamaran service from Split Airport to central Split, this summer has also seen another new service – a catamaran direct from Split Airport to Bol on the island of Brac, and to Stari Grad on Hvar.

Split Airport to Bol catamaran
Bol on the island of Brac

This service, run by SplitExpress, actually started operating on 1st June this year. However, for those of you yet to travel to Croatia this summer, we’re sure this is still welcome news, even now!

This catamaran service will prove very, very useful for anyone wishing to travel direct from Split Airport to the island of Brac and Hvar.

Timetable

There are four sailings a day from Split Airport to Bol at 10am (arrives 11.25am), 1pm (arr. 2.05pm), 4.20pm (arr. 5.25pm) and and at 8.50pm (arr. 10.15pm). The first and last sailing also stop at Split along the way (arrival time in Split is 15 minutes after departure from the port near Split Airport).

Additionally, the 1pm sailing from Split Airport travels on to Stari Grad on the island of Hvar, reaching it 2.50pm.

See the full timetable below:

Split Airport to Bol - SplitExpress catamaran outbound
Split Airport to Bol - SplitExpress catamaran inbound

Note: where two times are listed in one box, the first time means the arrival time and the second the departure time. For example, the 10am service arrives at Split at 10.15am, then departs at 10.30am to travel on to Bol, arriving there are 11.25am.

The timetable can also be found here.

Ticket prices

All tickets for the SplitExpress catamaran can be booked as one of three types – Lowfare, Lowfareplus or Flexplus. Lowfare is the cheapest option (understandably) and cannot be refunded or changed. Lowfareplus tickets cannot be refunded, although the departure can be changed (subject to availability). Finally, Flexplus tickets – as you may have guessed – are both refundable or can also be changed to another journey.

From Split Airport to Bol or Stari Grad, it costs 199 Kn (lowfare), 229 Kn (lowfareplus) or 299 Kn (flexplus).

Travelling from Split Airport to Split, costs 50 Kn (lowfare), 129 Kn (lowfareplus), or 199 Kn (flexplus).

From Split to Bol, it costs 99 Kn (lowfare), 129 Kn (lowfareplus), or 199 Kn (flexplus).

For Bol to Stari Grad, it costs 79 Kn (lowfare), 109 Kn (lowfareplus), 169 Kn (flexplus).

Prices are the same for adults and for children aged 2 and over. Children under 2 years of age travel free.

Tickets can be booked online.

Enjoy travelling from Split Airport this summer!

Riding along Dugi Otok

Croatia: cycling heaven, and also cycling hell

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John Clayton is a UK citizen who has been living in the coastal city of Rijeka for 15 years. Following on from his previous post about The Sound of Rijeka, John talks here about his experiences of cycling in Croatia – and what’s great for cyclists in the country, what’s not so good and what’s awful!

Cycling in Croatia can be truly incredible – discover picture-perfect beaches, ride the dramatic mountain with endless forest on one side with stunning views over the islands on the other. In so many ways it’s idyllic, but, and it’s a big BUT, the driving is highly bicycle unfriendly and cycling infrastructure is totally missing.

I find it hard to write about cycling in Croatia. There is so much great to say, yet the negatives are very real. Having said that I cycle most weekends, I feel highly privileged to have such incredible places to cycle on my doorstep and I am still here to tell the tale.

A perfect rest stop - cycling in Croatia
A perfect rest stop

Cycling in Croatia: the good

So here we go, let’s start with the good. Of course, the biggest draw is the unbelievably beautiful landscape. With a bicycle, it’s possible to escape the crowded beaches – even in the height of summer – and put up a hammock at an idyllic hidden beach with crystal clear water. Perhaps even better but less well-known is the riding in the mountains. Croatia has wild mountains, particularly Velebit (just north of Zadar). These are truly wild in a way that is increasingly difficult to find in Europe outside of the Nordic countries.

Cycling in Croatia - Velebit
High up in the Velebit mountains

The mountains provide so many excellent cycling options for any style of riding, and almost always you’ll be the only cyclist. This autumn we did a two-day mountain bike trip through Gorski Kotar (the mountains between Rijeka and the Slovenian border) and until we accidentally joined a mountain bike race near Platak we didn’t see a single other cyclist. In fact, in that one hour, we saw more cyclists than we had ever seen in Croatia over the last 15 years. To this day I’ve literally seen more bears than mountain bikers in Croatia (5 vs 3 if you’re interested). By the way, while there is a need to be bear aware in Croatia, drivers are a much, much bigger risk.

Winter riding in Gorski Kotar
Winter riding in Gorski Kotar

Another advantage of cycling in Croatia is that outside of July and August very good value accommodation can be found. One of our favourite weekend rides from Rijeka is to cycle across the island of Krk to then spend a night in the ever-so-cute town of Cres. We usually pay between €35-45 for an apartment. Eating out in winter is also cheaper, and we can prepare our own coffee and breakfast in the morning. In Croatia, we can afford to travel light and to be credit card tourers. In fact it’s often cheaper than camping – more about that in a minute.

Finding unexpected wildlife on the Brijuni Islands
Finding unexpected wildlife on the Brijuni Islands

Cycling in Croatia: the bad…and the ugly

So that was the good, how about the bad and the ugly?

Unfortunately, there is quite a lot. Firstly, the driving. Croatians are not known for their considerate driving, pedestrian crossings here are merely seen as a suggestion, and in no way an obligation. Accordingly, the vast majority of Croatian drivers will overtake cyclists immediately regardless of whether it is appropriate or not. Expect drivers to pass just inches from your left hand, usually holding a mobile phone in one hand and a cigarette in the other. There is not much that can be done about the driving, but we avoid bigger roads where possible and always wear helmets and yellow T-shirts.

The other major issue is the lack of infrastructure. Basically, there isn’t any. Rijeka, my home town, doesn’t have a single official bicycle rack. And forget about bicycle lanes. While a few sections do exist in random places, they are short and not linked together. Istria may be the best area of Croatia for cycle infrastructure but do not expect anything like Italy or Slovenia.

Riding along Dugi Otok
Riding along Dugi Otok

On top of this, very few trains carry bicycles to the coast (inland Slavonia is much better). There is just one a day between Zagreb and Rijeka, and none between Zagreb and Split apart from the overnight train that runs for a few weeks in the summer. In theory, buses carry bicycles, for a fee of around €10. However, it depends on space being available and the mood of the driver. These conditions make it impossible to book in advance so it cannot be relied on to return from a one-way trip along the coast for example. The bus companies even warn that getting a bicycle on a bus in summer is highly unlikely, I could add that Friday and Sunday afternoons/evenings all year round are also best avoided. Designing a circular route is the best option, or use the ferries between Italy and Zadar, Split and Dubrovnik for one-way routes.

The main ferry company in Croatia, Jadrolinija, only allows bicycles on their car ferries, for the same fee as a passenger. But please be aware that the passenger catamarans (listed as “brzi brod”) do not carry bicycles. Every year I see many cyclists in Rijeka being refused boarding as it is far from clear on the official information that bicycles are banned.

There is a reason for this misleading information – while both local and national tourist boards appear to encourage cycling, they clearly assume that every cyclist also has a car. It certainly isn’t necessary to have one (I don’t) but it does mean that information is presented based on this assumption. I also guess that no one working for these organisations has ever ridden a bicycle. Other catamaran companies operating in Dalmatia do carry bicycles – someone at Jadrolinija really doesn’t like cyclists!

Cycling in Croatia

Cycling in Croatia and camping

Similarly, campsites in Croatia are not at all geared up for cyclists, or, ironically, any kind of camping. Motorhomes now dominate the market and campsites have been designed accordingly. Campsites are usually floodlit at night, have rock-hard ground, and are shockingly expensive. They also charge a registration fee of about €2 per person for the first night – effectively a tax on cyclists and hikers, in contrast to Slovenian campsites that give discounts to cyclists.

Cycling into Nin, near Zadar
Cycling into Nin, near Zadar

There is a much better option to official campsites. A free, quiet, dark at night, option. Of course, I mean wild camping on one of the many, many isolated beaches in Croatia. The only problem is that wild camping is illegal in Croatia. The choice is yours. However, it might be worth bearing in mind that almost everything is illegal in Croatia and you will probably be breaking the law approximately every 5 minutes.

I just recently discovered that when there is no bicycle lane at a pedestrian crossing, cyclists are obliged to dismount and push their bikes across. As there is never, ever a bicycle lane I have already broken this law literally thousands of times. Just to make things worse, when cycling I do stop at crossings for pedestrians yet the cars behind me keep going, and somehow I am the one breaking the law.

Wearing yellow when cycling in Croatia
Wearing yellow

To cycle or not to cycle…

I think I forgot to mention that Croatia is hilly, always! This is not a complaint, just an observation. Croatia would not be anywhere near as beautiful if it were flat. Make sure you have low climbing gears. My other advice, wear a helmet and bright clothing, avoid busier roads if at all possible, and don’t plan on using public transport on the coast.

So yes, Croatia may be way behind almost every other European country when it comes to cycling but, there is amazing cycling to be discovered here. I am still exploring, always finding new and amazing places. It can be really, really beautiful. It is by far my most common weekend activity so take my concerns as forewarning and come cycling in Croatia.

Thank you so much for your very interesting piece, John. Some truly excellent advice for anyone interested in cycling in Croatia.

Photos of Dubrovnik

Croatia Travelogue 2009

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After their shenanigans at the 2009 Exit Festival in Novi Sad, Serbia, Visit Croatia and three friends decided to take a short holiday in Croatia. Here’s the Croatia travelogue from that trip!

Due to the constraints of work and other usual commitments, we could only spend six days for our trip to Croatia. I know from my experiences of fielding numerous email questions along the lines of “We only have a week in Croatia; what should we see/where should we go/how many places should we visit?” that I always advise, “Try not to do/see to much – you’ll enjoy yourself more!”

Photos of Dubrovnik
The Rector’s Palace (on the right), with the Church of St Blaise seen in the distance

Looks like I didn’t really take my own advice! Part of the reason for this was that my three travel companions had never been Croatia before (in fact, most had never been to anywhere in Eastern Europe before this trip), so we were eager to see as much as we could manage. And we’re not really the kind of people who want to laze on a beach for seven days straight. AND on top of that…who can resist the charms of Dubrovnik…right?

So our chosen route was Zagreb to Trogir to Dubrovnik. Here are our experiences in those three places!

  • Zagreb
    Two nights in the capital of Croatia sees us enjoying this bustling city with a walk around the main sights in the Lower and Upper Towns, and frequent stops at the many cafes!
  • Trogir
    Finally on the Croatian coast, we enjoy the beautiful city of Trogir (a UNESCO World Heritage site) and sample the local seafood.
  • Dubrovnik
    We enjoy this truly stunning city and the sights of the Old Town. Just a shame we’re only here for two nights!

If you’d like to see some photos taken during our trip, please see:

Split to Dubrovnik Catamaran 2024

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As we’re at the time of year that the Dalmatian coastal catamarans – those that operate from Split to Dubrovnik and Dubrovnik to Split – start operating, I thought I’d give a little round-up of those such services. I know they’re certainly popular with travellers! In this post, you’ll find timetables for all the Split to Dubrovnik catamaran services operating in 2024.

TP Line has just started its Split to Dubrovnik catamaran service

As of last Friday, 26th April 2024, TP Line has started operating its coastal catamaran which runs from Split to Milna on the island of Brac, Hvar Town, Korcula Town, Pomena on the island of Mljet and Dubrovnik. (And does the return journey too, of course!)

Split to Dubrovnik catamaran
Credit: TP Line

This is a service that departs Split in the morning, meaning you can make it to Dubrovnik for the mid-afternoon. For the reverse journey, you leave Dubrovnik in the mid-afternoon and arrive in Split just in time for dinner.

The timetable for this service in both directions is shown below:

SplitMilna (Brac)HvarKorculaPomena (Mljet)Dubrovnik
Daydeparturearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival
Monday – Sunday
(Daily)		9.15am9.45am | 9.50am10.30am | 10.45am12.10pm | 12.20pm1pm | 1.05pm2.35pm
Service runs from 26th April to 27th September 2024
DubrovnikPomena (Mljet)KorculaHvarMilna (Brac)Split
Daydeparturearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival
Monday – Sunday
(Daily)		3.15pm4.45pm | 4.50pm5,30pm | 5.40pm6.55pm | 7.10pm7.50pm | 7.55pm8.30pm
Service runs from 26th April to 27th September 2024

Tickets cost €48 for adults or €24 for children aged 3 to 12 whilst children under the age of 3 travel free. These prices are for the full Split to Dubrovnik or Dubrovnik to Split portion of the journey as well as for Milna – Dubrovnik/Dubrovnik – Milna and Hvar – Dubrovnik/Dubrovnik – Hvar. Other prices apply for the other portions; you can see these on the TP Line website where you can also buy tickets.

TP Line also operate several other catamaran routes along the Croatian coast include Dubrovnik – Sobra (Mljet) – Korcula – Ubli (Lastovo) and Dubrovnik – Sipan – Sobra (Mljet) – Polace (Mljet) – Korcula – Ubli (Lastovo).

Kapetan Luka’s service has already been running for a month

Kapetan Luka operate two popular Split to Dubrovnik catamaran services, and their most popular one has already been operating daily for the past month!

Kapetan Luka catamaran
A Kapetan Luka catamaran sails past Korcula

Their services also runs from Split to Milna on the island of Brac, Hvar Town, Korcula Town, Pomena on the island of Mljet and Dubrovnik. The timetable is shown below:

SplitMilna (Brac)HvarKorculaPomena (Mljet)Dubrovnik
Daydeparturearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival
Monday – Sunday
(Daily)		8.00am8.25am | 8.30am9.00am | 9.10am10.20am | 10.30am11.05am | 11.10am12.35pm
Service runs from 1st April to 31st October 2024
DubrovnikPomena (Mljet)KorculaHvarMilna (Brac)Split
Daydeparturearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival
Monday – Sunday
(Daily)		3.00pm4.20pm | 4.25pm5.00pm | 5.10pm6.30pm | 6.40pm7.15pm | 7.20pm7.45pm
Service runs from 1st April to 31st October 2024

As you can see, you can use this service from Kapetan Luka to make the journey from Split to Dubrovnik in time for lunch, with plenty of time for exploring in the afternoon.

This catamaran costs €50 for adults for the full Split to Dubrovnik or Dubrovnik to Split portion as well as for Milna – Dubrovnik/Dubrovnik – Milna and Hvar – Dubrovnik/Dubrovnik – Hvar. Other prices apply for the other legs of the journey.

The same company also have another Split to Dubrovnik catamaran that starts operating for the year in June. This service runs from Split – Bol – Makarksa – Korcula Town – Pomena on the island of Mljet – Dubrovnik. You can see the timetable below:

SplitBol (Brac)MakarskaKorculaPomena (Mljet)Dubrovnik
Daydeparturearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival
Monday – Sunday
(Daily)		8.45am9.35am | 9.45am10.20am | 10.30am11.40am | 11.50am12.20pm | 12.30pm2.05pm
Service runs from 10th June to 22nd September 2024
DubrovnikPomena (Mljet)KorculaMakarskaBol (Brac)Split
Daydeparturearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival
Monday – Sunday
(Daily)		3.05pm5.00pm | 5.10pm5.50pm | 6.00pm7.15pm | 7.25pm8.00pm | 8.10pm9.10pm
Service runs from 10th June to 22nd September 2024

Tickets for Kapetan Luka‘s coastal routes can be purchased on their website.

Jadrolinija’s Split to Dubrovnik catamaran starts in June

The main ferry and catamaran company in Croatia, Jadrolinija, of course also have a Split to Dubrovnik catamaran. However, their service only starts in June, running for the peak summer months. For completeness, I thought I would also add it here so you can get your Split to Dubrovnik catamaran info all on one page!

Split to Dubrovnik catamaran - Jelena
Credit: Jadrolinija

This is certainly a popular route as it connects some of the top destinations in Croatia: Split – Bol – Hvar Town – Korcula Town – Dubrovnik. This service travels from Split to Dubrovnik in the afternoon/evening, and from Dubrovnik to Split in the morning. That means lunch on the Riva in Split!

You can see the timetable below:

SplitBol (Brac)Hvar TownKorcula TownDubrovnik
Daydeparturearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival
Monday – Sunday
(Daily)		3.30pm4.30pm | 4.45pm5.35pm | 5.55pm7.10pm | 7.25pm9.25pm
Service runs from 7th June to 22nd September 2024
DubrovnikKorcula TownHvar TownBol (Brac)Split
Daydeparturearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival | departurearrival
Monday – Sunday
(Daily)		7.00am9.00am | 9.15am10.30am | 10.50am11.40am | 11.55am12.55pm
Service runs from 7th June to 22nd September 2024

Adult tickets cost €45 for Split to Dubrovnik/Dubrovnik to Split as well as Hvar to Dubrovnik/Dubrovnik to Hvar. Other prices apply to the other legs of the journey.

You can buy tickets on the Jadrolinija website.

What’s all this talk of catamarans? What about the ferry?

There is no longer a slow ferry between Split and Dubrovnik, one that would be able to take cars as well as passengers. This was a service run by Jadrolinija in the past – for decades, in fact – although it hasn’t operated for almost ten years now and was being run at a loss towards the end of its time. Actually a coastal service that originated Rijeka, I’m sure this would be welcomed by many travellers these days. But, suffice to say, there is no coastal ferry service between Split and Dubrovnik.

If you have a car, you will need to drive down or up the coastline!

Travel question: the best places to stay from Zadar to Dubrovnik

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Hi, we are planning to fly into Zadar in late June for approximately 14 nights, working our way to Dubrovnik and flying back from there. Looking for about 6 or more places to stay over on our way down, we will be travelling by bus so don’t want long bus transfers, so could you give me some ideas of some nice places where we could stay or when travelling down, please?

J.P.

14 nights from Zadar to Dubrovnik sounds truly wonderful, lucky you! That’s a great amount of time to see Dalmatia. Travelling by bus is no problem, and I would also actually add some catamarans (or ferries, where applicable) into the mix as this trip would also be a good chance to see and experience some islands. However, I’ll also give you an option to stick to the mainland only if you prefer.

Zadar to Dubrovnik - Trogir
Trogir

Zadar to Dubrovnik – Travelling on the mainland, by bus, only

  • Start in lovely Zadar with so much to explore and enjoy here!
    …1 hour 30 minutes by bus to…
  • Sibenik – a charming old town, with its two UNESCO World Heritage sites (definitely visit the fortresses!), and a lovely harbourfront 
    …30 minutes to…
  • Skradin to visit Krka National Park, a gem of a national park with its gorgeous waterfalls and lakes, plenty to explore on a day or two here
    …just over 1 hour to… (N.B. Only one bus a day at 17.30 with Best Line)
  • Trogir – a gorgeous little town, lots of tiny cobbled streets, good restaurants and cafes
    …only 30/45 minutes to…
  • Split – Croatia’s second city, a must-visit on your way down from Zadar to Dubrovnik! So much to see and do here, plus excellent restaurants, bars, shopping, beaches…the list goes on!
    …just over 1 hour to…
  • Makarska – another highlight on this part of the coast, a popular holiday destination with great amenities and rather impressively loomed over by Mount Biokovo
    …2 hours 30 mins/3 hours to…
  • Dubrovnik – the pearl of the Adriatic!

So, the above is actually only 5 places to stop off at when travelling down from Zadar to Dubrovnik. I think this is a good amount as you can base yourself in any one place and then make additional bus trips to nearby locations.

I would have liked to add in an extra place between Makarska and Dubrovnik for you, but this part of the coast thins out a little in terms of towns to visit. One place to explore would have been somewhere on the Peljesac Peninsula e.g. Ston but it is only possible to travel there from Makarska (if travelling by bus) via Dubrovnik, which wouldn’t make much sense.

The GetByBus website will help you look up bus timetables and book tickets.

From Zadar to Dubrovnik - Korcula Town
Korcula Town

Zadar to Dubrovnik – Mainland by bus to Split and then by catamaran down to Dubrovnik

Now for the second option. The start is as the above itinerary, for the Zadar to Split portion, and then from there: 

  • Split
    …1 hour by catamaran…
  • Hvar Town on Hvar – a popular island town with great restaurants and interesting sights (the Spanjola Fortress on the hill is a must-see); taking a taxi bro to the Pakleni islands on a day trip is also recommended
    …1 hour 10 mins by catamaran to…
  • Korcula Town – a mini-Dubrovnik, a delightful place
    …just under 2 hours to…
  • Dubrovnik

Or two other islands you could do instead would be Brac (home to the famous Zlatni Rat beach) or Mljet (with its beautiful greenery and nature). Or any combination of two – Hvar and Mljet, Brac and Korcula…

Kapetan Luka and Jadrolinija run these catamarans; there are quite a few sailings on these routes (some – e.g. Split to Hvar – more than others) so the best advice would be to look up tickets on the ferry company websites to see what time the sailings are.

Enjoy your travels from Zadar to Dubrovnik!

The best ways of getting around Croatia

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Croatia doesn’t lack transport options or decent infrastructure in any way, but here are a few helpful hints and tips you should know for the best ways of getting around Croatia.

The best ways of getting around Croatia – Bus

We’ll start with perhaps the best one! Croatia’s bus network is very, very extensive and far more so than the train network (more of which later). Buses connect all the major towns and cities in Croatia, and plenty more places besides; there are also normally local buses operating on routes in and around major cities – for example, with the city buses in Split you can reach Trogir or Omis, whilst the Dubrovnik bus network can take you to Cavtat or Dubrovnik Airport to the south or Ston and the Peljesac Peninsula to the north.

Bus travel is relatively cheap, although there’s no option for anything like a ‘bus pass’ allowing unlimited travel, which might be handy. Having said that, there are many bus companies operating in Croatia – see our Bus Travel in Croatia page – and it’s very unlikely you’d want to limit yourself to just one company anyway. You can normally make savings if you book return tickets (if you’re making a return journey, of course!) and some companies give savings if tickets are booked online – e.g. Autotrans.

A bus crossing a bridge near Zadar

Some bus routes even utilise local ferries so you can use them to get onto the islands – for example, if travelling from Dubrovnik to Korcula. Other islands are connected to the mainland by bridge – namely, Krk and Pag – so bus travel is often the best way of getting to these places.

The best ways of getting around Croatia – Train

Travellers to mainland Europe often have quite a romantic notion of train travel and the classic gap year/young adult pursuit of interrailing. Which is completely understandable – travelling around a large territory such as Europe is fun! Not to mention that certain countries – France, Italy, Germany, and Spain – now have some rather speedy rail services that will zip you from city to city in just a few hours.

However, you can’t really say much of this for Croatia! The rail network has been underfunded for many years now (the road network, in contrast, has been built to provide modern motorways) and, by and large, it is not very extensive. Zagreb is the main rail hub and there are services stretching out from this city to some of the main towns and cities (Rijeka, Split, Osijek, Varazdin) but not all that much in between other locations.

There are also very, very few services along the coast!

Croatian Train
A train in Croatia

Additionally, some routes will be quicker by bus which utilises a motorway route rather than on the slow rail network – Zagreb to Rijeka is two and a half hours by bus but four hours by train. Zagreb to Split can be as fast as four and a half hours by bus (it really depends on which bus you take and how many stops it makes) but it’s six and a half or eight and a half hours by train.

If you did want to undertake a train route in Croatia (and didn’t mind the extra journey time), we would recommend Zagreb to Split…or vice versa. It is a very scenic route!

The best ways of getting around Croatia – Flying

Flying is obviously the quickest option for getting around Croatia, there’s no disputing that! The country’s main airline, Croatia Airlines operates flights connecting Zagreb with Pula, Zadar, Split, Dubrovnik and Osijek, and even the tiny airport by Bol on the island of Brac.

There are also flights connecting Pula with Zadar and Osijek, Split with Pula, Rijeka and Dubrovnik and Rijeka with Split and Osijek. If there are no direct flights for the route you want, you should be able to travel by connecting in Zagreb. Take a look at our Flights in Croatia page for the full timetable for this year.

Best ways of getting around Croatia - Flying
The gorgeous view when departing from Split Airport

Charter airline Trade Air also operates in Croatia, and you can book their flights on the Croatia Airlines website as well.

Understandably, flying is the most expensive way of getting around Croatia but the cost may be worth it if you’re looking to travel quickly. But don’t forget to factor in the time (and cost) required to travel to and from airports.

The best ways of getting around Croatia – Ferries

Well, for the most part, you can hardly escape travelling by ferry (or catamaran) if you want to get onto the islands…right? (Putting aside islands such as Krk and Pag which are connected to the mainland by bridge.)

Catamarans are of course faster than ferries but there are few routes on which both a catamaran and ferry operate. One exception is Split to the island of Vis – to show you the comparison in journey time, by catamaran it takes 1 hour 25 minutes whilst by ferry it is 2 hours 20 minutes. (Both of these routes are run by Jadrolinija.)

Similarly, Split to Vela Luka on the island of Korcula takes 2 hours and 5 minutes and by ferry, the journey takes 3 hours 30 minutes. (Again, both routes are run by Jadrolinija.)

Best ways of getting around Croatia - by ferry or catamaran
Ferries and catamarans at Split port

Having said this, ferries tend to be a far more scenic mode of transportation. Almost all of them allow you to sit up on the deck and watch the beautiful Adriatic and its islands go by. Catamarans have little in the way of outdoor space (if any!) and can also be rather noisy.

Catamarans tend to run on some of the longest coastal routes – for example, Split to Dubrovnik and Pula to Zadar. Sadly the once long-running coastal ferry from Rijeka to Dubrovnik stopped operating a number of years ago.

Ferries will absolutely be your chosen method of transport if you’re travelling with a car. Catamarans only accept foot passengers!

Take a look at our Croatia Ferries Map to get an idea of whether catamarans or ferries operate on the route wish to make!

The best ways of getting around Croatia – Road

Renting a car when in Croatia undeniably gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace, and to set your own route for wherever you’re trying to get to – and allowing you to go “off-plan” whenever you want!

However, renting a car can be the most expensive way of travelling around Croatia and you will also have to factor in paying tolls (if you make use of motorways) as well as parking charges when visiting towns and cities.

But if you’re sharing the rental with someone else (or a few of you), it can work out to be relatively reasonable. And you’ll be able to schlep all your belongings around without any effort at all!

Best ways of getting around Croatia - by road
A winding road on the island of Pag

The best ways of getting around Croatia – Taxi

We obviously wouldn’t suggest taxis in Croatia as a mode of transport for long distances! But they’re a reasonable way of getting around a small area if you don’t have a rental car and don’t want to rely on public transport.

Almost all towns and cities have a good selection of local taxi companies who you can call to book a taxi. Ask at your place of accommodation for a recommendation.

Riding-hailing apps such as Uber and Bolt exist in Croatia and are a super-easy way of getting a taxi. If you haven’t used them before, you may end up getting a small discount as a first-time user.

So what is the best way of getting around Croatia?

The best way of getting around Croatia probably depends on how much time you have for travelling around the country, and what your itinerary specifically is.

If you’re happy with renting a car, we’d say this is probably the best way of getting around Croatia as it gives you the most flexibility!

If you’d prefer to go down the public transport option, we’d suggest getting around Croatia by bus. The bus network is very good and bus travel is relatively cheap.

Catamarans or ferries will of course be the way to go to get to the islands!

Why not combine some of the above during your holiday? Rent a car for a week (or a portion of a week) to explore a certain region, and then rely on public buses or ferries for the remainder?

Dubrovnik to Split

Dubrovnik to Split…and back! Updated for 2020

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One of our more frequently visited posts on our blog is our guide on Getting from Split to Dubrovnik…and Dubrovnik to Split! As it’s been a few years since we wrote it, we thought we would revisit the information and update it for 2020.

This is one of the most frequently travelled routes by visitors to Croatia, so we hope you find this information useful!

Dubrovnik to Split - Updated for 2020

Dubrovnik to Split by catamaran

There are three catamaran services running from Dubrovnik to Split in summer, operated by two different companies.

Kapetan Luka run two of these services, both of which sail daily. Perhaps the one that travellers might find most useful is the catamaran that sails Dubrovnik – Pomena (island Mljet) – Korcula Town – Hvar Town – Milna (island of Brac) – this service starts running for the year from early April, and operates daily right through to the end of October. The catamaran departs Dubrovnik at 4.30pm, arriving in Split at 8.55pm – meaning, sailing time is 4 hours and 25 minutes.

Kapetan Luka‘s other catamaran sails Dubrovnik – Sobra (island of Mljet) – Korcula Town – Makarska – Bol (island of Brac) – Split. This one runs daily from the end of May through to the end of October. This catamaran departs Dubrovnik at 4pm, arriving in Split at 8.45pm – sailing time is 4 hours and 15 minutes.

You can book the Kapetan Luka catamarans using the search box below:

Jadrolinija also have a catamaran connecting Dubrovnik and Split. Operating daily from early June to mid September, their catamaran stops at Bol on Brac, Hvar Town and Korcula Town en route. Sailing time between Split and Dubrovnik is 5 hours and 15 minutes. This catamaran sails from Split in the mid afternoon (reaching Dubrovnik at 9pm), and sails from Dubrovnik in the early morning (reaching Split at 12.30pm).

The above mentioned services are the only options if you wish to make the journey from Dubrovnik to Split by sea. No other direct catamaran or ferry route exists – and there are definitely no car ferry options.

Island Hopping

You obviously don’t have to go go direct from Dubrovnik to Split if taking a catamaran! The services above mean you can easily spend a night or two (or more) on the islands of Mljet, Korcula, Hvar and/or Brac along the way!

A possible (part) car ferry route

If you did want to make part of the journey by car ferry, the best idea would be to drive up the coast from Dubrovnik towards the top of the Peljesac Peninsula to Orebic. From here, you can get a car ferry onto the island of Korcula. Driving to the western side of the island, you can then get a car ferry from Vela Luka to Split with Jadrolinija. This ferry sails twice a day (only once on Saturdays and Sundays out of season) and takes 2 hours 45 minutes.

If you wanted to include a different island to Korcula, you could instead drive further up the coast to Drvenik and then get a ferry across to Sucuraj on the island of Hvar. You would then need to drive across the island to Stari Grad to get another ferry up to Split.

Alternatively, you could drive even further up the coast to Makarska and then get a ferry to Sumartin on the island of Brac. Either return back to Makarska to continue your drive to Split, or drive across Brac to Supetar to get another car ferry to Split.

All of these car ferry routes are run by Jadrolinija.

Island hopping with a car is pretty much out of the question – few car ferry routes exist that travel from island to island. So you’re really only be able to visit one island before sailing up to Split.

Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik’s Old Town Harbour

Dubrovnik to Split by Bus

Those not taking the catamaran option for travelling between to two cities will likely instead by travelling by bus. There are plenty of buses travelling on this route every day, year-round – so it’s an easy journey to make indeed.

Journey time is about 4 to 4.5 hours (longer during peak summer season when the roads are busy) and a one-way ticket costs in the region of 90 to 140 Kunas, depending on which bus you take.

You can look up bus times and ticket prices (and book tickets) on the getbybus.com website.

Of course, buses go through the small section of Bosnia & Hercegovina that sits between the two portions of Dalmatia. So keep your passport handy as it will be checked!

Dubrovnik to Split by Air

It is possible to fly between Dubrovnik and Split – however, flights do not operate daily so it’s not the most convenient option.

Operated by Trade Air (and bookable on the Croatia Airlines website), flights operate twice a week. Journey time is 45 minutes.

Split
Narodni trg (People’s Square), also known as Pjaca in Split

Dubrovnik to Split by Road

If you’re hired a car in Croatia, driving up the coast is easy enough. You can either take the scenic coastal road – the Adriatic Highway (or Jadranska magistrala) all the way, but do consider that there will be heavy traffic on this road in the peak summer months.

Alternatively, you can drive up the coastal road to near the town of Ploce. Close to here, you will be able to join the the A1 motorway (this is where it starts/ends) to take it all the way to the Split region. Do be aware that you have to pay a toll for using the motorway – this costs 51 Kunas from Ploce to Split.

Split to Dubrovnik Private Transfer

For those that don’t want to rent a car – but equally don’t want to use public transport – a private transfer can often be the best solution in travelling from Split to Dubrovnik.

Visit Croatia Recommends This door to door private car service is an easy and comfortable way to travel between these two cities. Prices are fixed and very competitive – cheaper, in fact, than a taxi, with prices starting at €210. You can also choose your pickup time and whether you’d like to modify the trip to include stops along the way, making the transfer into an excursion. For a free quote on Dubrovnik to Split transfers contact Octopus Transfers Croatia. 

Can I go by train?

Five years may have passed since we wrote our original post and in that time…Dubrovnik has not built a train station. (This is a joke – there were no plans to build one!)

So no, you cannot travel from Dubrovnik by train to Split!

Getting from Split to Dubrovnik

Getting from Split to Dubrovnik…and Dubrovnik to Split!

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We’re sure that many of you will be travelling from Split to Dubrovnik (or Dubrovnik to Split) this summer, so we thought we’d lay out the various options for getting between the two!

Getting from Split to Dubrovnik

Split to Dubrovnik by Catamaran

Kapetan Luka have a daily catamaran operating in both directions from Split to Dubrovnik. The catamaran operates in the early morning from Split to Dubrovnik – stopping at Milna on Brac, Hvar Town, Korcula Town and Mljet – whilst the opposite journey operates in the late afternoon/early evening. Journey time between Split and Dubrovnik is 4 hours 15 minutes.

You can of course also split up the journey en route to either Dubrovnik or Split e.g. Dubrovnik to Korcula and then stay there for a night or two.

You can book tickets online on the Kapetan Luka website or using the search box below – during peak season, this would be advisable.

The catamaran does also operate in October, although only three times a week.

2017 Update: Kapetan Luka have a new daily catamaran operating between Split and Dubrovnik. This one stops at Bol on the island of Brac, Makarska, Korcula and Sobra on the island of Mljet when travelling between the two cities. Journey time between Split and Dubrovnik is 4 hours 30 minutes, and the sailing is also in the early morning from Split, with the reverse in the mid afternoon.

Jadrolinija also now have a catamaran connecting Dubrovnik and Split. Operating daily from early June to mid September, their catamaran stops at Bol on Brac, Hvar Town and Korcula Town en route. Sailing time between Split and Dubrovnik is 5 hours and 15 minutes. This catamaran sails from Split in the mid afternoon (reaching Dubrovnik at 9pm), and sails from Dubrovnik in the early morning (reaching Split at 12.30pm).

Split to Dubrovnik by Ferry

Jadrolinija used to run – for absolutely years and years – a coastal ferry service that stretched from Rijeka in the north down to Split and Dubrovnik, stopping off at a couple of the islands along the way (Hvar and Korcula). For 2015, this route has been cancelled – so there are no car ferry options between Split and Dubrovnik. 2017 Update: Details of this service being restarted in 2017 was released – however, by the summer, this has failed to materialise.

There is a year-round Jadrolinija car ferry that operates from Split to Vela Luka on the island of Korcula. As an alternative to the above ferry, you could utilise this – perhaps staying on Korcula for a bit! – before then taking a ferry from Korcula to Orebic on the mainland, and then driving down to Dubrovnik. (It’s a bit of a different alternative, admittedly!)

Split to Dubrovnik by Bus

Luckily, these two Croatian coastal gems are connected numerous buses that run daily. Journey time is around 4 and a half hours – although do note that in peak season (July and August), you may be delayed by an hour of more if the coastal road is especially busy with holiday traffic.

The route stretches through a portion of Bosnia & Hercegovina (called the Neum corridor), so do keep your passport on your person/in your hand luggage and not in the suitcase you’ve put in the hold!

This is a transit route through Bosnia & Hercegovina, so you won’t need a visa for the country (if you otherwise would – EU/US/Canadian/Australian nationals don’t).

Split to Dubrovnik - Neum Corridor
Neum

Buses normally use Neum as a comfort break – a chance to stop for the loo, stretch your legs and to snap a few pics of ‘you in Bosnia’. Luckily, it’s a pretty nice view! There’s also a shop there if you fancy stocking up on ‘duty free’ (booze and cigarettes) and a few little knick knacks; snack options are a little thin on the ground unless you like biscuits, crisps and soft drinks/water.

Check schedules for the route – whether for Split to Dubrovnik or Dubrovnik to Split on the Split Bus Terminal website. The Dubrovnik Bus Terminal also displays this information, but it’s not quite as user friendly.

Split to Dubrovnik by Air

Trade Air have a few flights a week in each direction between Split and Dubrovnik; flight time is 40 minutes.

There are transfer buses between both airports and each city’s main bus station – and in the case of Dubrovnik, the bus also stops at the Old Town. See Getting to and from Split Airport and To and from Dubrovnik Airport.

Split to Dubrovnik by Road

If you’re driving between Split and Dubrovnik, there are two road options – either the scenic coastal road for the whole route, or inland on the A1 motorway as far as Ploce – where the motorway ends – and where you need to then towards the coastal road to continue the journey.

Which one you take is up to you in terms of whether you’re under time pressure or not. The coastal road is beautiful of course – but it can be very busy during the summer months!

Split to Dubrovnik Private Transfer

Visit Croatia Recommends A popular transport option for travel between Split and Dubrovnik is a private transfer. This door to door car service makes for easy and comfortable travel between these two cities. Best of all, prices are fixed and very competitive – cheaper, in fact, than a taxi with prices starting at €210. In addition, you can choose your pickup time and whether you’d like to modify the trip to include stops along the way, making the transfer into an excursion. For a free quote on Dubrovnik to Split transfers contact Octopus Transfers Croatia. 

Split to Dubrovnik by Train

This one’s a no go! Dubrovnik has no train station, for starters…and train services up and down the Croatian coast don’t really exist. But you’ve luckily got plenty of other transport options – as detailed above!

Useful Links

A weekend break in Croatia - Pula

Pula – Zadar catamaran re-introduced for 2017

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Details of the popular Pula – Zadar catamaran route – which ceased to operate a few years ago – have finally been announced for summer 2017, just a few weeks ahead of the route actually starting!

Now run by Croatia’s main ferry operator Jadrolinija, this catamaran will start running on 3rd June 2017, and will in fact be run as a year-round service. (With a greater frequency of sailings during the peak summer months, and far less – in fact, just once a week – in off season.)

The full route also takes in the islands of Unije, Susak, Mali Losinj, Ilovik and Silba en route.

Pula - Zadar catamaran

In June and September, the catamaran will sail twice-weekly, on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The catamaran will depart Pula at 7am, and arrive in Zadar at 1.15pm. For the return journey, the catamaran departs Zadar at 4pm, reaching Pula at 10.15pm.

During the peak months of July and August, the catamaran will operate five times a week (every day except Tuesdays and Thursdays). Again, the catamaran will depart Pula at 7am, reaching Zadar at 1.15pm, or 1.05pm on the days it does not make a stop on Ilovik. For the return journey, the catamaran sets sail from Zadar at 5pm (4pm on Fridays), arriving in Pula at 11.05pm/11.15pm (10.05pm on Fridays).

In off-season (early October onwards), the catamaran will only operate on Fridays.

The full timetable – including the times at which the catamaran calls at the islands – can be found on Jadrolinija’s website.

Tickets for the Pula – Zadar catamaran

Tickets can be booked online on Jadrolinija‘s website. A one-way ticket from Pula to Zadar (or reverse) costs 200 Kunas in high season (June to September inclusive). In low season, a one-way ticket costs 160 Kunas.

Prices for any of the other legs of the journey e.g. Pula – Mali Losinj, Zadar – Ilovik and so on, can be found on the above website.

Getting to Zadar - Ferry

Istria and Dalmatia are connected by sea!

This catamaran is certainly one that has been missing for many travellers in recent years, judging by the feedback we’ve had. We are sure many will welcome its return.

There are hardly any (actually, none!) ferry or catamaran routes from Istria to other parts of Croatia. That means this catamaran will be very handy for those in this part of the country.

In fact, there are currently hardly any sailings from the north Croatian coast to areas further south/Dalmatia. This Pula – Zadar catamaran is therefore a great way of connecting the north and south parts of the Croatian coastline.

Alternatives to the Pula – Zadar catamaran

One route that does exist connecting the north and south (ish!) parts of the coastline is the Rijeka – Rab – Novalja (on the island of Pag) catamaran. Also run by Jadrolinija, this sails daily year-round. Full timetable can be found on the Jadrolinija website.

There are frequent bus connections from Novalja/Pag to Zadar, so you can still reach this town by utilising this route.

There are also daily, year-round flights connecting Pula and Zadar. Operated by Croatia Airlines, this is the most suitable option if you need to travel quickly – flight time is only 40 minutes! (Although you obviously do need to factor in getting to and from each airport.)

Other useful travel information

The following sections may also be helpful to you: