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Spas in Croatia - Terme Sveti Martin

Thermal Spas in Croatia

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While holidays are normally ultra-laid-back in general, something that can really up the relaxation stakes is a visit to a spa! Here, we round up some of the best thermal spas in Croatia.

Thermal spas generally make use of naturally occurring hot waters under the earth; these are used in the spas’ pools for therapeutic and restorative reasons. Many of the spas featured in this guide do so, and for that reason, many of the spa resorts are used by people for physical rehabilitation. However, this kind of water therapy can also greatly help anyone with skin issues or rheumatic conditions, even those with certain injuries, and also those seeking fertility treatments.

These spas also offer large pools, usually both indoor and outdoor, with elements to entertain the whole family (hello, water slides!) as well as beauty treatments and other typical restorative spa options. Whilst the indoor sections of these spas are more than enough to entertain during a visit, the large outdoor parts also mean they’re great to visit over the warmer months.

Many of the thermal spas featured here are in inland Croatia, in locations that are perhaps not so frequently visited by foreign tourists. Why not combine a visit to one of these spas in Croatia with exploring the interior of the country too?

Terme Tuhelj, Tuheljske Toplice, central Croatia

Just 40km from Zagreb, a visit to Terme Tuhelj could be easily undertaken as a day trip or an overnight break when visiting Croatia’s capital. Established just over 20 years ago, this modern spa is based on a thermal spring and a healing mud spring, and these are two of the main benefits of visiting this spa. The sulphurous outdoor pool has a constant temperature of 32/33C which is incredibly soothing for bathers. Do also cover yourself in the therapeutic mud for the ultimate in natural healing.

In such an environment, it’s no surprise that the Terme Tuhelj spa is also home to a large-scale beauty and treatment spa named the SPAeVITA Center. The treatment list is vast, and surely their signature massage with thermal mud is a popular choice. Should that not feel quite right for you, you could opt for a chocolate massage (wow!) or a regular massage with aromatic oils.

Thermal Spas in Croatia - Terme Tuhelj Resort
Part of the pool complex at Terme Tuhelj

Another massive draw to this place is the huge pool complex covering 15,000 square metres – in fact, the largest such complex in Croatia! This includes water slides, a wave pool, a small section for the youngest swimmers and a children’s water city for those aged between 3 and 10. As an adult, carry on with your relaxation in the 250-metre-long lazy river which flows into two lagoons that offer underwater massage currents. You can even enjoy a cocktail in the water.

The accommodation choice is vast here, from the four-star Hotel Well to Camp Vita, one of the top-rated campsites in Croatia. There are also luxury modern mobile homes at the Terme Tuhelj Glamping Lodge or get more at one with nature by staying in one of the Safari Tents.

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Terme Sveti Martin, northern Croatia

Terme Sveti Martin is located in the very northern tip of Croatia, very close to the border with Slovenia, in the lovely region of Medjimurje. Declaring itself the “first healthness resort in Europe”, this resort is the ultimate for those wanting a peaceful break in nature. Surrounded by 27 hectares of beautiful countryside, you will find yourself surrounded by gorgeous greenery at all times…and may even come close to wild deer.

The resort’s principle target is promoting healthness which they say combines “active rest, wellness experience, and [a] raising awareness of one’s own health”. Where to start your journey into this than at the pool complex, called The Temple of Life, where the thermal-mineral waters are at a constant temperature of 35C. Containing lithium, selenium and potassium, a dip in the pool is sure to give you an energy recharge and also provide an anti-inflammatory effect for anyone looking for skin treatments. Just the surroundings of the pool, with its calming wooden materials and softly curved structures, will put you in a relaxing mood. Unbelievably, the waters here are believed to be 43,000 years old – but only known in modern times since 1911 when the ground was drilled to search for oil. (Something better was found instead!)

Terme Sveti Martin - Thermal Spas in Croatia
Terme Sveti Martin – The Temple of Life pool (Credit: Terme Sveti Martin)

Beauty and spa treatments are also readily available here, of course, in the 1,800 square metre spa centre. Opt for one of their signature grape seed massages which they use as an anti-oxidant for promoting a youthful appearance. That’s just one of the interesting treatments on offer – others include a pumpkin body care programme, a milk and honey treatment, and a cherry blossom and lotus body treatment (which is Japanese-inspired). There are special beauty treatments aimed at teenagers, massages for pregnant ladies and even “mummy and me” or “daddy and me” wellness treatments aimed at parents and their children.

Body vitality scans are also available for you to book – these are diagnostic scans that may help identify certain ailments or issues and may result in recommendations for lifestyle or nutritional changes.

Families will be delighted by the small water park MartiLandia with its selection of outdoor pools with water slides.

In terms of accommodation, there’s the four-star Hotel Terme Sveti Martin or the Terme Sveti Martin Apartments which are very suitable for those travelling as a family or with pets.

Daruvar Spa, Slavonia, eastern Croatia

Davruvar Spa is located around 140km southeast of Zagreb in the Slavonian spa town of Daruvar which has long been associated as a location for healing water treatments…even as far back as Roman times. The spa places great importance on physical therapy and rehabilitation and many of the guests staying here are undertaking such programmes. Daruvar Spa also focuses on fertility treatments, and offers a longer-stay programme in this regard called “Joy of Life“. Stress relief and weight loss programmes are also offered.

One of the pools at Daruvar Spa
One of the pools at Daruvar Spa (Credit: Daruvar Spa)

Of course, as with any thermal spa, this one has several indoor and outdoor pools filled with thermal water with temperatures ranging from 28C to 35C. This thermal water is said to help with joint, muscle bone issues, and rheumatic illnesses although anyone is sure to benefit. One of the pools also offers aqua-spinning – riding an underwater bicycle – which is an excellent way of achieving the benefits of cycling whilst being far easier on joints and muscles than riding on a hard surface.

Accommodation is offered in the three-star Hotel Termal or the Depandansa Arcadia, located in a 19th-century building.

Istarske Toplice, Istria, coastal Croatia

Anyone wishing to combine a spa break on the Croatian coast with some time at a thermal spa should definitely consider Istarske Toplice. This spa is located in inland Istria, close to the town of Buzet, and about 50km northeast of Porec,

The resort’s thermal pools contain sulphuric mineral-rich waters that have an average temperature of 32-34C. The centre also offers medicinal mud treatments in which mud is layered onto the skin at a thickness of 3-4cm and a temperature of 40C for around 40 minutes, before being washed off by the thermal water.

Spas in Croatia - Istarske Toplice
Istarske Toplice (Credit: Istarske Toplice)

There are many other therapies and treatments here besides – sulfur vapour inhalation which targets respiratory tract illnesses and inflammation; kinesiotherapy; water therapy; electrotherapy; massage therapy and more.

Istarske Toplice is also home to a number of different saunas including an infra sauna, a Finnish sauna and an aroma steam sauna that makes use of medicinal herbs.

For accommodation, why not stay at one of the many private rentals located nearby?

Varazdinske Toplice, northern Croatia

The oldest thermal spa in Croatia, the Roman settlement Aqua Iasae was once located here, and the thermal waters were used as a spa all those centuries ago. But even the modern-day Varazdinske Toplice resort has its roots in a spa that was first opened in the 18th century, and by the early 1900s, the spa had become a popular destination for those seeking medical treatments.

The resort offers a very wide range of medical therapy, from many water-based therapies that involve the thermal waters to more usual treatments such as cryotherapy and paraffinotherapy.

Thermal Spas in Croatia - Varazdinske Toplice
The outdoor pools at the Varazdinske Toplice spa resort (Credit: Minerva)

Those not seeking treatments will be able to have plenty of fun in the numerous pools, especially the outdoor pools with water slides.

Other Thermal Spas in Croatia

The Stribor Resort in the gorgeous inland Gorski Kotar region (around 90km east of Rijeka) provides the perfect opportn

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Terme Bjelovar is presently under construction, due to open in 2026. Located in the northern town of Bjelovar, the complex will eventually offer seven different pools including an Olympic-sized one.

More info

For other super relaxing destinations and locations in Croatia, look at our A Wellness Break in Croatia guide. This guide includes plenty of recommendations for spa hotels in Croatia, especially some very fine options on the Croatian coast.

Is Croatia a cross-country skiing paradise? Almost!

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John Clayton is a UK citizen who has been living in the coastal city of Rijeka for 15 years. Following on from his previous post about Croatia: cycling heaven, and also cycling hell, in his latest post here, John talks about something you may now consider about Croatia – cross-country skiing!

I’ve just discovered the perfect winter activity for Croatia. I’m just not quite sure what it is called:  Nordic ski touring? off-track cross-country skiing? Backcountry cross-country skiing? All are used but none quite have the right ring. Whatever the name is it, the mountains in Croatia are perfect for it.

Maybe it’s easier to describe than name, making your own cross-country ski trails to explore the mountains. This is very common in Nordic countries and in parts of the US but rare elsewhere. However, it turns out I have the perfect terrain on my doorstep. Gorski Kotar is the mountainous region just northwest of Rijeka, bordering Slovenia. It is almost entirely forested and when the snow falls the forestry trails transform into a perfect, picturesque network of snowy tracks just waiting to be skied.

Beautiful skiing winderness
Beautiful skiing wilderness
Skiing in the twilight on Bitoraj
Skiing in the twilight on Bitoraj

We discovered this niche type of skiing almost by accident. A couple of times a year we would go cross-country skiing in Slovenia using rented gear. It was certainly fun but the equipment was never very good and the boots always hurt. So we bought cheap sets of traditional track cross-country skis, aiming just to have something cheap but better than worn-out rental equipment. Once we had the equipment of course we wanted to use it. So whenever there was enough snow, we’d find ourselves making our own tracks up at Platak – the main ski “resort” in Croatia. We made many excellent trips but clearly our equipment wasn’t ideal so last year we invested in wider skis, stiffer boots and binding, and touring poles with wider baskets. It has proved to be a great decision as it has opened up so many new amazing winter adventures in the mountains.

Croatia cross-country skiing - bear tracks
Bear tracks
Wolf tracks
Wolf tracks

Over Christmas this year we explored the forest around Begovo Razdolje, the highest village in Croatia, near Mrkopalj. We had two beautiful sunny days, skiing our way up into new areas with trails forking off at every turn, all waiting to be explored another day. Other than a handful of hikers on snowshoers in the distance, we had the mountains to ourselves. Ourselves and the bears to be precise, both days we came across fresh bear tracks – shouldn’t they be hibernating?

Heading down to Begovo Razdolje
Heading down to Begovo Razdolje
Heading up from Begovo Razdolje
Heading up from Begovo Razdolje
Skiing past a memorial to Patizans at Matic Poljana
Skiing past a memorial to Patizans at Matic Poljana

Transport to skiing and cross-country skiing locations in Croatia

Unfortunately, there is no public transportation to Begovo Razdolje so we had to hire a car, which luckily is remarkably cheap here in winter. More conveniently there is a public bus to Platak from Rijeka on weekends. Platak is the most popular ski area in Croatia and is just 35km from Rijeka.  We recently had another fabulous snowy day exploring the trails in this area, and as usual, the more we explored the more potential we found for future trips. The weather was great in the morning but the snow forecast for the afternoon turned out to be rain, so we retreated to “Mali Dom” at Platak to dry out and to be revived by hot wine.

More surprisingly for Croatia, we even managed to go skiing by train. The trains in coastal Croatia are notoriously bad so rarely useful for leisure purposes. I like to think that we might even be the first people ever to ski by train in Croatia. We took the early afternoon train from Rijeka to Vrata, just a few minutes past Fužine, and headed up the slopes of Bitoraj mountain. We turned back just in time to catch the train back at 5pm. It was only a two-hour ski trip but a truly remarkable one, boarding the train in Rijeka in ski boots and being back home within four hours having skied in Gorski Kotar. All for less than €5 each!

Just in time for the train back to RIjeka
Just in time for the train back to RIjeka

Of course, Croatia, famous as a hot summer destination, does not have reliable snow and like everywhere else is affected by climate change. As I write this, the mountains are almost bare of snow. Three days of rain cleared the snow completely and the few flakes that fell yesterday look pretty but are nowhere near enough to ski on. Now we have to be patient and hope for more snow while appreciating that we had such an excellent Christmas.

Croatia can be very snowy
Croatia can be very snowy
On Bitoraj mountain
On Bitoraj mountain

I’d love to be able to propose Croatia for a cross-country skiing holiday but it’s just not realistic. It really can be truly incredible but luck plays too much of a role when planning any snow sport here. You need to be nearby and waiting. However for anyone in the region when the snow does fall, the opportunities are as good as anywhere in the world. Maybe there should be a name for this combination of skiing, patience and luck, Gorski Hrvatskiing? No, perhaps not.

On a practical note, we are now using 80mm backcountry cross-country skis with backcountry “BC” NNN boots and bindings. This set-up is perfect. However, there is plenty of fun to be had on traditional track ski gear. The narrow pole baskets sinking into fresh snow is probably the biggest frustration.

I’ve uploaded most of the routes we’ve done onto Wikiloc if anyone is interested. My username is Safatempo – see Safatempo’s trails and waypoints | Wikiloc : wikiloc.com.

Thank you once again, John, for such an informative and in-depth post, with some gorgeous photos too! Hopefully, this will inspire readers to give cross-country skiing in Croatia a go!

Riding along Dugi Otok

Croatia: cycling heaven, and also cycling hell

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John Clayton is a UK citizen who has been living in the coastal city of Rijeka for 15 years. Following on from his previous post about The Sound of Rijeka, John talks here about his experiences of cycling in Croatia – and what’s great for cyclists in the country, what’s not so good and what’s awful!

Cycling in Croatia can be truly incredible – discover picture-perfect beaches, ride the dramatic mountain with endless forest on one side with stunning views over the islands on the other. In so many ways it’s idyllic, but, and it’s a big BUT, the driving is highly bicycle unfriendly and cycling infrastructure is totally missing.

I find it hard to write about cycling in Croatia. There is so much great to say, yet the negatives are very real. Having said that I cycle most weekends, I feel highly privileged to have such incredible places to cycle on my doorstep and I am still here to tell the tale.

A perfect rest stop - cycling in Croatia
A perfect rest stop

Cycling in Croatia: the good

So here we go, let’s start with the good. Of course, the biggest draw is the unbelievably beautiful landscape. With a bicycle, it’s possible to escape the crowded beaches – even in the height of summer – and put up a hammock at an idyllic hidden beach with crystal clear water. Perhaps even better but less well-known is the riding in the mountains. Croatia has wild mountains, particularly Velebit (just north of Zadar). These are truly wild in a way that is increasingly difficult to find in Europe outside of the Nordic countries.

Cycling in Croatia - Velebit
High up in the Velebit mountains

The mountains provide so many excellent cycling options for any style of riding, and almost always you’ll be the only cyclist. This autumn we did a two-day mountain bike trip through Gorski Kotar (the mountains between Rijeka and the Slovenian border) and until we accidentally joined a mountain bike race near Platak we didn’t see a single other cyclist. In fact, in that one hour, we saw more cyclists than we had ever seen in Croatia over the last 15 years. To this day I’ve literally seen more bears than mountain bikers in Croatia (5 vs 3 if you’re interested). By the way, while there is a need to be bear aware in Croatia, drivers are a much, much bigger risk.

Winter riding in Gorski Kotar
Winter riding in Gorski Kotar

Another advantage of cycling in Croatia is that outside of July and August very good value accommodation can be found. One of our favourite weekend rides from Rijeka is to cycle across the island of Krk to then spend a night in the ever-so-cute town of Cres. We usually pay between €35-45 for an apartment. Eating out in winter is also cheaper, and we can prepare our own coffee and breakfast in the morning. In Croatia, we can afford to travel light and to be credit card tourers. In fact it’s often cheaper than camping – more about that in a minute.

Finding unexpected wildlife on the Brijuni Islands
Finding unexpected wildlife on the Brijuni Islands

Cycling in Croatia: the bad…and the ugly

So that was the good, how about the bad and the ugly?

Unfortunately, there is quite a lot. Firstly, the driving. Croatians are not known for their considerate driving, pedestrian crossings here are merely seen as a suggestion, and in no way an obligation. Accordingly, the vast majority of Croatian drivers will overtake cyclists immediately regardless of whether it is appropriate or not. Expect drivers to pass just inches from your left hand, usually holding a mobile phone in one hand and a cigarette in the other. There is not much that can be done about the driving, but we avoid bigger roads where possible and always wear helmets and yellow T-shirts.

The other major issue is the lack of infrastructure. Basically, there isn’t any. Rijeka, my home town, doesn’t have a single official bicycle rack. And forget about bicycle lanes. While a few sections do exist in random places, they are short and not linked together. Istria may be the best area of Croatia for cycle infrastructure but do not expect anything like Italy or Slovenia.

Riding along Dugi Otok
Riding along Dugi Otok

On top of this, very few trains carry bicycles to the coast (inland Slavonia is much better). There is just one a day between Zagreb and Rijeka, and none between Zagreb and Split apart from the overnight train that runs for a few weeks in the summer. In theory, buses carry bicycles, for a fee of around €10. However, it depends on space being available and the mood of the driver. These conditions make it impossible to book in advance so it cannot be relied on to return from a one-way trip along the coast for example. The bus companies even warn that getting a bicycle on a bus in summer is highly unlikely, I could add that Friday and Sunday afternoons/evenings all year round are also best avoided. Designing a circular route is the best option, or use the ferries between Italy and Zadar, Split and Dubrovnik for one-way routes.

The main ferry company in Croatia, Jadrolinija, only allows bicycles on their car ferries, for the same fee as a passenger. But please be aware that the passenger catamarans (listed as “brzi brod”) do not carry bicycles. Every year I see many cyclists in Rijeka being refused boarding as it is far from clear on the official information that bicycles are banned.

There is a reason for this misleading information – while both local and national tourist boards appear to encourage cycling, they clearly assume that every cyclist also has a car. It certainly isn’t necessary to have one (I don’t) but it does mean that information is presented based on this assumption. I also guess that no one working for these organisations has ever ridden a bicycle. Other catamaran companies operating in Dalmatia do carry bicycles – someone at Jadrolinija really doesn’t like cyclists!

Cycling in Croatia

Cycling in Croatia and camping

Similarly, campsites in Croatia are not at all geared up for cyclists, or, ironically, any kind of camping. Motorhomes now dominate the market and campsites have been designed accordingly. Campsites are usually floodlit at night, have rock-hard ground, and are shockingly expensive. They also charge a registration fee of about €2 per person for the first night – effectively a tax on cyclists and hikers, in contrast to Slovenian campsites that give discounts to cyclists.

Cycling into Nin, near Zadar
Cycling into Nin, near Zadar

There is a much better option to official campsites. A free, quiet, dark at night, option. Of course, I mean wild camping on one of the many, many isolated beaches in Croatia. The only problem is that wild camping is illegal in Croatia. The choice is yours. However, it might be worth bearing in mind that almost everything is illegal in Croatia and you will probably be breaking the law approximately every 5 minutes.

I just recently discovered that when there is no bicycle lane at a pedestrian crossing, cyclists are obliged to dismount and push their bikes across. As there is never, ever a bicycle lane I have already broken this law literally thousands of times. Just to make things worse, when cycling I do stop at crossings for pedestrians yet the cars behind me keep going, and somehow I am the one breaking the law.

Wearing yellow when cycling in Croatia
Wearing yellow

To cycle or not to cycle…

I think I forgot to mention that Croatia is hilly, always! This is not a complaint, just an observation. Croatia would not be anywhere near as beautiful if it were flat. Make sure you have low climbing gears. My other advice, wear a helmet and bright clothing, avoid busier roads if at all possible, and don’t plan on using public transport on the coast.

So yes, Croatia may be way behind almost every other European country when it comes to cycling but, there is amazing cycling to be discovered here. I am still exploring, always finding new and amazing places. It can be really, really beautiful. It is by far my most common weekend activity so take my concerns as forewarning and come cycling in Croatia.

Thank you so much for your very interesting piece, John. Some truly excellent advice for anyone interested in cycling in Croatia.

Ziplines in Croatia

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If you’re the sort of traveller who seeks adventure at every turn and definitely does not want to have your feet firmly planted on the floor – some of the time – ziplines are absolutely the thing for you. These days, Croatia is home to a number of amazing zip lines in some top locations, all with truly spectacular views of surrounding nature, famous sights, islands and more, They’re absolutely the sort of thing to give your holiday a thrill. Here’s our guide to the best ziplines in Croatia.

Generally, the ziplines in Croatia listed below operate daily through the high summer season (and just before/after this period), and by appointment at other times of year.

If they’re not your cup of tea or perhaps you have a fear of heights – you’re in good company, I do too! – let’s keep our feet on terra firma. Why not stick to the Top Sights in Croatia or the Best Beaches in Croatia?

On the other hand, ziplining may be just the tip of the…ahem, mountain?…for you, in which case take a look at our Activities in Croatia page for all sorts of fun adventures for you to enjoy.

Zipline Croatia, Omis

Zipline Croatia is one of the oldest established and top rated ziplines in the country, located just outside the fun town of Omis. (The company does have an office in central Omis, however, where you can book and to meet your instructors.) This high wire will see you zipping high above the beautiful Cetina River canyon, with the gorgeous natural surroundings just the thing for your high adventure activity.

Zipline Croatia is in fact a series of eight ziplines totalling 2,100 metres in length and at a height of 150 metres above the ground. The longest zipline of the eight is 700 metres in length, and the whole activity takes around two and a half hours.

Ziplines in Croatia - Zipline Croatia
Credit: Zipline Croatia

This zipline is open to participants aged 7 and above, meaning that even kids can enjoy the experience! The instructors will be able to verify whether the child in question can descend by themselves, or will need to ride the zipline in tandem with an adult.

A “flight” on this zipline costs €65 per person.

Panorama Zipline, Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik is obviously one of the most stunning destinations in Croatia, and you only have to glimpse the city’s Old Town to know why. What about viewing the Old Town from high above whilst zipping along…on a zipline?! Panorama Zipline operates their experience on Mount Srd above Dubrovnik, which obviously provides the required height for this sort of adventure as well as stunning scenes of the historic part of the city and out across the Adriatic Sea to the nearby islands and beyond.

Ziplines in Croatia - Panorama Zipline Dubrovnik
Credit: Panorama Zipline, Dubrovnik

The Panorama Zipline experience offers two ziplines, 500 metres in total length, which all thrill-seekers are able to go down twice. You’ll reach speeds of up to 80 kilometres per hour! The whole adventure takes three hours, which includes short transfers to the main part of the city. The whole experience costs €50 per person.

Slightly better than viewing Dubrovnik from a zipline is viewing Dubrovnik from a zipline…whilst the sun is setting! Panorama Zipline does also offer sunset tours, which are priced at €55.

Zipline Du The Wire, Dubrovnik

Another option for Dubrovnik – and the longest coastal zipline in the country, stretching out over 900 metres! The Wire zipline is one of those where to take flight in “Superman” position – essentially, exactly how Superman takes to the skies. At an altitude of 175 metres, you’ll reach speeds of up to 100 kilometres an hour…that’s pretty speedy indeed. But not so fast that you won’t be able to admire the stunning Adriatic Sea and the island of Lokrum.

This zipline is located around 4km from Dubrovnik, but it’s easy to get to as local bus number 10 goes direct from the main bus station (or just above the Old Town) to the zipline.

The Wire is priced at €60 for adults and there are four sessions (two in the morning, two in the afternoon) per day.

Zipline Split

You’re very likely to be travelling through Split on your Croatia travels, so what better place to try out a zipline than in Dalmatia’s largest city? Or close to it, anyway, as Zipline Split is located up on Mount Kozjak above Split, close to the small town of Klis. This position means you have a glorious view out to the Adriatic Sea and the famous Dalmatian islands nearby whilst you’re thundering down the wire.

Covering a total of 2,500 metres of cabling over 6 different zip lines, the whole adventure at this place takes around three hours.

This zipline adventure costs €66 per person if you’re collected from central Split, or €59 if you reach the starting point with your own means of transport. Children aged 10 are allowed (as long as they are over the minimum weight requirement) although will likely need to ride in tandem with an adult up to the age of 17.

Generally, Zipline Split offers two morning departures (at 8.30am and 10.30am) and two afternoon departures (at 3.30pm and 5.30pm)

Zipline Sibenik

Zipline Sibenik is another zipline that’s located above a river canyon with stunning nature, this time the Cikola canyon – which is about 25 kilometres from the lovely town of Sibenik itself.

This zipline comprises three separate lines of 1,400 metres in total length which are at a height of between 30 metres and 120 metres above ground. You’ll reach speeds of up to 70 kilometres per hour! The total experience takes around 1 hour, although you will need to add transfers (organised by prior arrangement) on top.

Zipline Sibenik is priced at €50 per person, although you can also take advantage of a special package for 2 adults and 1 child for €135.

If this zipline doesn’t provide enough adrenaline for you, the same company also organises other thrill-inducing activities, such as rock climbing, quad biking and sea kayaking.

Pazi Medo Zipline, Plitvice

I mean, you hear about a zipline in the Plitvice Lakes region and you immediately think, “sign me up”! The Pazi Medo Zipline (which means “beware of the bear”) allows you to experience the beautiful nature of the heavily forested Lika region.

Almost 2,000 metres in length, the Pazi Medo Zipline will see you reach speeds of a rather staggering 120 kilometres per hour, at a height of 80 metres above the ground.

Credit: Pazi Medo Zipline

This zipline costs €39 for adults or €19.50 for children up to the age of 14. You can even rent a GoPro camera for €5 to record your zipline flight yourself! Your footage gets transferred to your own USB stick (you must bring one with you) or your phone. Rock climbing and cycling is also possible here for those of you who want to prolong the high-thrills adventure.

Edison Zipline, island of Krk

For those of you who want to maximize your time on a zipline in Croatia, Edison Zipline on the island of Krk is for you. This one is the longest zipline in the country, with its eight separate lines totalling over 2,000 metres in length.

Located in the interior of the island, between the main towns of Krk Town and Baska, you will be able to enjoy absolutely gorgeous views over the island itself and Baska, and to the smaller island of Prvic which is situated south of Krk.

Ziplines in Croatia - Edison Zipline, island of Krk

The experience is priced at €70 for children up to the age of 12, €75 for adults and €100 per person for private tours. Children up to the age of 12 must operate the zipline in tandem with an adult.

Zipline Pazin, Istria

For a zipline with a difference (one in which you zip over and near a cave and a castle), give this one near Pazin in Istria a try! Zipline Pazin sees you fly high above a natural and unusual gorge on four different lines which have a total of 660 metres in length. Reaching speeds of up to 50 kilometres per hour, the last line is the one in which you can glimpse the famous Pazin Cave.

Credit: Zipline Pazin

With a total flight time of around 50 minutes, this is perhaps one of the shorter zipline experiences available to you in Croatia. However, pre-booking isn’t necessary unless you are planning on trying this out of season or if you’re in a group of ten or more.

Glavani Park, Istria

Near Barban in inland Istria, Glavani Park isn’t just a zipline but a whole adventure park with a number of aerial activities! (You may well have experienced something similar in your home country.) As well as the two ziplines that are 113 metres and 80 metres in length, you have aerial courses of three different levels of difficulty (there is also an easy one just for kids), a high suspension bridge, a 12-metre-high climbing wall, a 20 metre “high jump” (that’s the height you jump off, not the height you achieve!) and a human catapult that flings you distance of 75 metres.

For €63, you will get access to all of the activities in the adventure park for one whole day. Should you wish to experience just one element of Glavani Park, it costs €9 or €7 for children aged 10 and under.

Happy Ziplining!

The Top 10 Tours in Croatia 2024

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Now that you’ve got your holiday all booked up (if you’re still deliberating, why not head over to my Plan Your Perfect Holiday to Croatia 2024 advice page) it’s time to start thinking about what day trips and tours you might like to do on your travels in the country. On this page, I’m going to suggest some of the best tours in Croatia 2024 – including some of the most popular ones, some “must-see” experiences and some that are perhaps…slightly bonkers…but are too good to miss!

For all the tours below, I’ve shown the length of the tour and whether the tours can be booked individually (meaning you join a group and can book as 1, 2 or more people) or whether they need to be booked as a group.

Please note: this post contains affiliate links, which may earn Visit Croatia revenue. All suggested tours are Visit Croatia’s own opinion, however!

The Top 10 Tours in Croatia 2024

1. Enjoy the best sunset in the world in Zadar – in style!

1.5 hours, can be booked individually

Sunsets are a pretty spectacular affair up and down the Croatian coastline, but there’s no better place to watch the setting sun than in Zadar. (Just ask Alfred Hitchcock.) Whilst sitting up on the main seaside promenade with the Sea Organ twinkling gently alongside is a superb free experience, take things to the next level on a Sunset & Night Cruise with Unlimited Sparkling Wine. (They totally had me at “unlimited sparkling wine”.)

The 90-minute small boat tour sets off from Zadar marina and makes the small journey out to sea to really make the most of the glowing sunset as it makes its way behind the local islands. After experiencing this, you’ll then be taken on a brief sightseeing tour of some of the town’s main sights by sea – including the aforementioned Sea Organ. And all the while, you’ll get to sip on sparkling wine!

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2. Zip across a zip line near Split

2.5 – 3 hours, can be booked individually

When did zip lines get so popular? And who invented them?! I’m not the biggest fan of ziplines given a slight fear of heights and “going faster than a human should be going” (I believe that’s the official technical term) but I can totally see how the thrill-seekers amongst you are beside yourselves with the opportunity to try a zip line in a new location.

There are actually a number of zip lines in locations up and down the coast, but I’ve picked out a zip line experience that’s just a short journey from Split.

The Zip Line Adventure (which also provides optional transportation) takes you to a zip line which is situated on Kozjak, a small peak slightly inland from Split. The actual zip line isn’t just one zip line, oh no – it’s six different zip lines, which comprise 2,500 meters in total length and then also include a 90-meter suspension bridge through pine trees.

The tour of course also provides a full safety briefing before participants make their way over to start their zip-lining adventure. You’ll be flying over beautiful Croatian forests with sea and island views in no time.

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3. Enjoy the tranquil island of Cres on a boat trip from Opatija

8 hours, can be booked individually

If you’re holidaying in gorgeous Opatija, you may not necessarily think about doing a boat trip to any of the local islands which is a shame as there are some real beauties in this part of the coast.

This 8-hour Boat Trip to Secluded Beaches on Island Cres tour sees you head off to one of Croatia’s quieter islands – just the kind of place to have hidden beaches. You’ll be able to enjoy three beach stops as well as visiting the charming village of Porozina. The tour offers plenty of time for swimming and snorkelling, and generally just having a relaxing time on lovely Cres!

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4. Views for miles on Biokovo Skywalk via tuktuk (from Makarska)

2.5 hour tour, can be booked individually

One of the more modern sights in Croatia is the Biokovo Skywalk experience on Mount Biokovo. Opened in 2020, this horseshoe-shaped glass platform extends 11m over the cliff face at a height of 1,228m, offering amazing views out across the Adriatic Sea to nearby islands such as Brac and Hvar.

The Biokovo Skywalk isn’t far from Makarska at all but it is up high (of course!) and getting to it is a little tricky if you don’t have your own transportation. That’s where the Skywalk Biokovo Sunset Tour by TukTuk comes in.

You’ll get picked up from your hotel (there are a number of pick-up points along the Makarska Riviera) and then taken to Biokovo Nature Park in a little tuk-tuk. (Not perhaps the most authentic of transportation in Croatia, but the open nature of the vehicle works perfectly to allow you to enjoy the nature all around you and the views!)

Having skipped the entry queue, the two-and-a-half-hour tour gives you time to enjoy parts of Biokovo National Park on a guided tour (with scenic stops for photos) whilst also offering 30 minutes on the Biokovo Skywalk at sunset. Glorious to enjoy at any time of day, sunset will be a wonderful time to experience it. You’ll then be driven back through the Nature Park and returned to your hotel.

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5. Food and wine in Dubrovnik

3 hours, can be booked individually

If you’re in Croatia, you’re going to have to indulge in all sorts of local gastronomic specialities – and where better to do so than if you’re visiting Dubrovnik?

The 3-Hour Food and Wine Tour is a walking guided tour that takes in many of Dubrovnik Old Town’s top sights, whilst also offering the chance for you to sample some little treats at the city’s top restaurants. And treats that come with a wine pairing! The culmination of the tour – as any good tour should – is dessert comprising of a traditional Dubrovnik cake.

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6. Private Boat Tour from Dubrovnik

8 hours, group booking

“Oh la-dee-dah” – you’re probably thinking – “private boat tours are how the other half live, but there’s no way I can afford them!” Well, perhaps you can – providing there’s a big enough group of you. A number of private boat tours can cater to large groups of say 6 to 12 people and when you divide the total cost of the boat tour by 6, 8, 10 or even 12 that ends up being…not too much at all.

Of course, there are a wide variety of private boat tours from ports such as Zadar, Trogir and Split, but take a look at this Full Day Elafiti Islands Private Experience for six people. The tour gives you 8 hours of exploring time on the three main Elafiti islands, Kolocep, Lopud and Sipan allowing you to explore beaches, bays and the islands’ tiny villages. The tour can be customised as per your group’s wants so if you prefer to explore as much as possible you can, or if you want to devote a good chunk of time on a secluded beach, that’s possible too.

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7. Get your kayak on and explore Dugi Otok

11 hours, individual booking available

Once you’ve explored your Croatian destination to the fullest on foot or by transport of some sort, why not do the same…by sea? And not just on some kind of boat tour – why not put the effort into it yourself by powering your own sea vessel? Before I start going too cryptic, I’m referring to sea kayaking.

The island of Dugi Otok near Zadar is one of the lesser-known Croatian islands – often referred to as an “off-the-beaten-track” kind of place – and is ripe for exploring. On the Full-Day Kayaking Tour in Dugi Otok, you’ll be transferred to a bay to start your sea kayaking adventure – an adventure that will lead you to all manner of secret coves, bays, caves and even past soaring cliffs. You’ll then get transferred to the north part of Dugi Otok for lunch and where the second part of your kayaking adventure will commence – one that will take you to a sunken ship which will give you the opportunity to do a spot of snorkelling.

The final bit of the tour offers a spot of fun on Sakarun Beach, one of the best (sandy!) secret beaches in Croatia.

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8. Night-time kayaking from Pula

2 hours, individual booking available

If you’ll be further up the coast but want to indulge in a spot of sea kayaking, why not try this rather inventive trip based in Pula? Because what’s better than just regular sea kayaking? Night-time kayaking. And what’s better than that? Night-time kayaking in a transparent kayak. (Yes, really!) And one that’s equipped with LED lights so you can see into the sea.

This 2-hour Night-time Sea Kayaking in a Transparent Kayak tour sets off from the Verudela resort area of Pula to explore the Adriatic Sea and all that it contains – by which I mean marine life. Should you tire of looking at the little fishes (unlikely) then simply look up and do a spot of star-gazing instead.

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9. Visit the Plitvice Lakes from Split

12 hours, individual booking available

How could I not include visiting the truly amazing Plitvice Lakes in this list of the best tours? Visiting them yourself is relatively straightforward – it’s just an easy public transport bus ride up from cities such as Zadar or Zagreb. But if you’re in Split and want to visit Plitvice, things get a little more complicated because of having to rely on (the not so frequent or well-timed) buses.

The 12-hour Plitvice Lakes National Park Full-Day Tour transportation to and from the Plitvice Lakes as well as a 4.5-hour guided tour inside the National Park. After the tour, you’ll have time to take one of the short boat rides or simply take a breather amongst the beautiful nature.

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10. Hop over the border to Slovenia from Zagreb

11 hours, individual booking available

When you’re in Croatia, there are quite a few chances to hop over to a neighbouring country for a day trip – to Montenegro from Dubrovnik, Bosnia and Herzegovina from Split or Dubrovnik and Italy from Istria, for example. But you may not know that it’s a very short journey up to Slovenia and Ljubljana from Zagreb. And not just Ljubljana but the magical Lake Bled too.

The 11-hour Ljubljana with Funicular, Castle, and Lake Bled tour offers a great chance to take in some of Ljubljana’s best sights, including the impressive Ljubljana Castle. And no visit to Slovenia is complete without enjoying the tranquil Lake Bled, which is also included on the tour.

All transport is included, and you’ll get a guided walking tour of Ljubljana too. Just remember to bring your passport!

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Other Top Tours in Croatia 2024

Narrowing down all the wonderful tours you can do in Croatia to just ten was impossible. So here are a few more tours that are absolutely worthy of a mention:

Open water swimming in Croatia - Cres

Open Water Swimming in Croatia

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John Clayton is a UK citizen who has been living in the coastal city of Rijeka for 15 years. Following on from his previous post about enjoying an Outdoor Easter in Rijeka, John talks here about open water swimming in Croatia – in particular the best beaches in and around Rijeka to seek out for this activity.

Croatia made me become a swimmer. As a mountain sports kind of person, swimming had always just been a pleasant way to cool down in the summer. Swimming involved expending a lot of energy to go nowhere, and I was fine with that. However Croatia, with over 1200 islands, 6000 kilometres of coast, and crystal clear, mirror-smooth water, gave me no choice but to change my swimming from “not drowning” to actually moving forward.

Open water swimming in Croatia - Cres
Swimming past the tip of Cres

After many hours on YouTube and a lot of ineffective splashing at my local beach, I am now able to swim a mile, with a few breathers. Fortunately, this is just enough to swim the length of the beaches in my part of Rijeka.

Every part of the Croatian coast has amazing and accessible swim options. I’ll share here my tips for my local area, but this is just a tiny area; every part of the Croatian coast has similar opportunities. Better still, very few Croatians swim far from the beach and the tourist boards have yet to realise the potential of promoting swimming – this leaves the sea to us swimmers and the dolphins.

My preference is to swim with a tow, partly for security but also it allows for one-way swims. There is something very special about arriving somewhere from the sea. I’d also strongly suggest wearing a bright swim cap, there are boats in the summer and they don’t expect to see swimmers beyond the beaches.

Uvala Svežanj

The best swimming spots in Rijeka

As mentioned, I live near a string of beaches in Rijeka. As the third biggest city in Croatia, Rijeka is known as an industrial city. However, the southern suburb of Pećine is home to several beautiful beaches. My favourite swim is to start at Grčevo, home of the cute Pajol beach bar. I swim north past the first few small beaches and the tiny marina, then pass Glavanovo and the most famous beach in Rijeka, Sablićevo. Going around the corner, wide enough to avoid the cliff-jumping teenagers, I pass Hotel Jadran and finish at the dog beach by the main port. I usually swim north as there is less glare from the morning sun, but either direction works (in the video we are swimming south).

Kostrena
Kostrena

All of the beaches mentioned have free showers and the water is drinkable. The number 1 bus regularly runs from the city centre along this route making access very easy.

My second recommendation is to cycle, or take the number 10A bus, to Kostrena, just a little further south. Here there is a 3km stretch of white pebbled beaches separated by caves and vertical cliffs. There is a pedestrian path allowing an easy return from a one-way swim. Uvala Svežanj is a picture-perfect location and is the ideal place to start. You can swim either 1.3km north to Žukovo or south as far as you feel like, although I’d suggest stopping before you get to the refinery.

On the other side of the bay, the famous towns of Opatija and Lovran are just a short hop on the number 32 bus and offer another whole range of swim possibilities.

John has also produced an excellent video of the best open water swimming spots in Rijeka – take a look below:

Other Locations for Open Water Swimming in Croatia

And my last suggestion, if you want a truly wild and remote swim adventure and there are at least two of you. I strongly recommend a swim/kayak trip, alternating swimming and paddling. Last year we took camping gear and swam/kayaked around the northern tip of Cres Island for an incredible two days. We’d previously made a similar trip in the Kornati National Park in Dalmatia, perhaps the most spectacular place in the world to swim.

Open water swimmg in Croatia - Kornati islands
Swimming in Kornati National Park
Green Sail Free Course

Free course on chartering a yacht in Croatia from non-profit organisation Green Sail

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Something that is sure to be of interest to all sailors in Croatia this summer is the news that Split based non-profit organisation Green Sail have launched a free online course titled Yacht Charter: An Introduction to Croatia.

Green Sail Free Course

The course combines the knowledge and experience of professional yacht skippers and the established Green Sail team to help all sailors who are new to Croatian waters. The course will provide a concise and informative introduction to the unique world of sailing green in Croatia.

With the wonderfully calm Adriatic Sea and numerous islands and islets, it’s no surprise that sailing is a popular type of holiday and sport in Croatia – and elsewhere around the globe. Sailing in a new country can be daunting and confusing, so the Yacht Charter: An Introduction to Croatia course is an ideal way for first-time sailors in Croatia to learn about the specifics of sailing in this country, and to help reduce the risks onboard.

Everyone that completes the short 20 minute course will be well equipped to set sail in Croatia safely and efficiently with more confidence. You will also reduce the risk of damage onboard your charter yacht (possibly incurring additional costs) and will have an increased awareness of environmental sustainability issues involved with sailing.

Yacht Charter: Introduction to Croatia
Yacht Charter: Introduction to Croatia

The Yacht Charter: An Introduction to Croatia course will cover technical topics such as safety equipment onboard, using your bow thruster and how to dock and moor in Croatia. However, the course will also teach sailors about important environmental issues in the country such as how and when to release black and grey waters, anchoring near Posidonia Oceanica, waste reduction onboard and the importance of recycling

Green Sail is a non-profit organization that is dedicated to promoting the development of responsible nautical tourism in Croatia and abroad.

You can watch the course trailer here – https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=1667511910305917.

To sign up to the course, head to Yacht Charter: An Introduction to Croatia on the Green Sail website.

The Yacht Week 2021

The Yacht Week 2021 open for bookings

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All young, adventurous travellers looking ahead to next summer and planning their holidays will be delighted to hear that Yacht Week 2021 has announced bookings are open. It’s the ideal opportunity to not only book the trip of a lifetime, but also to book something to look forward to in the current doom and gloom.

The Yacht Week 2021

Their flotilla of yachts set sail on the sparkling Adriatic waters, with several routes for Croatia available – including the Croatia Original route, the Ultra Festival Route and new for 2021, the Hideout Festival Route. The flagship Croatia Original route starts from just £392 / €422 / $508 per person on limited early bird yachts – that’s incredibly reasonable for such an unforgettable summer holiday! This Original route, for example, can take in places and islands such as Trogir, Vis, Hvar, Brac and Split – you’ll certainly experience many of the top destinations in Croatia as well as having an amazing time.

The Yacht Week Hvar
Hvar
The Yacht Week Brac
Zlatni Rat Beach on the island of Brac

The Yacht Week doesn’t just cover Croatia, however. They also offer amazing routes in Greece, the Caribbean, Polynesia, Montenegro and Sardinia – that last one also being a new option for 2021.

Yacht Week 2021 will offer the best yachts and the best prices for all of their destinations. And that’s not all – with new, flexible ticket terms, all guests will be able to book with confidence. If current global circumstances change by next summer, or perhaps you change your mind ahead of your travels, The Yacht Week has you covered. And whilst on your hols with The Yacht Week, you’ll be in a proven, safe environment.

Single travellers or groups of friends can charter a yacht of their choice, equip it with a skipper and a host and enjoy the amazing experience of a seven-day flotilla getaway. It’s the perfect choice whether you’re looking to let loose and party it up, or to kick back and relax. (Or perhaps a bit of both?) The Yacht Week 2021 can deliver a set of carefully curated activities as guests require.

The Yacht Week 2021
The Yacht Week

About The Yacht Week

Since 2006, The Yacht Week has created opportunities for people to step out of their everyday lives. Like-minded individuals can come together to enjoy an experience like no other. You don’t need any sailing experience at all, although you absolutely can get involved out on the open water. Not to mention finding secluded little bays that are perfect for swimming and snorkelling.

The Yacht Week lets travellers take their pick of the best parties from clubs to deserted islands. Better still, their unique circle raft at sea – complete with the Buzz Boat fully loaded with VOID Acoustics Soundsystem – is an experience and a half!

The Yacht Week 2021
The Yacht Week 2021

Watch sunsets from the coolest beach bars, lounges and restaurants whilst enjoying exquisite cuisine and cocktails, explore the world with scooters and open-top cars, or choose wellness and recovery with beachside yoga, spas and fitness. The highly experienced team at The Yacht Week can organise all of this and more – they deliver a highly curated experience. A week at sea with The Yacht Week is also a chance to make friends for life and join a very special community. And get this – no less than seventy (seventy!) marriages can be traced back to a first meeting at The Yacht Week!

The Yacht Week’s flotillas even set sail in summer 2020, despite the challenges presented by the global pandemic. This year’s The Yacht Week received some of the best feedback ever from those who took part. As a ‘floating festival’ of hundreds, it has proven itself a safe environment compared to standard festivals of many thousands of people. 

The Yacht Week

Booking The Yacht Week 2021

Bookings are now open for The Yacht Week 2021, for all of their routes in Croatia and other countries. To book or to see more information about their routes, please see www.theyachtweek.com.

Keep your eyes peeled for forthcoming announcements on the big-name DJs and other music events appearing exclusively at The Yacht Week 2021. Follow The Yacht Week on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and YouTube for all the latest news.

Gather your friends together to set sail along stunning coastlines and idyllic islands. You’ll make memories that will last a lifetime!

Hvar Trail Holiday

From Zwift to Hvar! A Hvar Trail Holiday Bikepacking Adventure

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Here’s an experience of a bikepacking holiday on the island of Hvar by Simona from Italy, who enjoyed this Hvar trail holiday just last month! Bikepacking is a combination of mountain biking and camping. Read on for Simona’s experience of both of these elements on Hvar, and also the island of Brac. Thank you for sharing this trip experience with us, Simona!

March 2020. The world stopped. We are all locked in the house, astonished and fearful that the quarantine could last forever. We try to keep mind and boy busy as we can. We are looking for a motivation to keep spinning the reels even if we would like to throw them out the window!

Hvar Trail Holiday

I met Luca this way. We crossed our paths at the Winter Fat Trail in Asiago in early February and exchanged friendships on Facebook. When the quarantine started I found it on the bike trainer, spinning like crazy! He had the mission to ride for 14 consecutive hours with the virtual help of “friends and family” on Zoom. I thought: this is crazy! But I wrote to him and we met for a ride. And then, again and again, until it became a daily milestone, first on Zoom, then on Zwift. Luca became my mental coach and taught me a lot of things on riding, training, breathing, nutrition… He’s been training me really hard! We got a lot of “long rides” and running the pedals we started talking and dreaming on the return on the road ….. maybe even for several consecutive days….. maybe in bikepacking.

Luca is a true bikepacking expert. He’s been traveling that way for years. I’m a newbie. I quite never slept in a tent. But I was amazed from it. I only had one handlebar bag that I got at the WFT and I started from there. First, I got a bag for the frame. Then a saddle bag… the tent… the sleeping bag… an inflatable mat… everything! We kept making plans. I tell him I can’t stand his pace, but he didn’t give up. He made me spit blood, but he took me to the end. It would be a good test even to him, who usually travels alone.

Our first idea was to do the “Sicily Divide” and we begun to study the tracks. We decided to start in June, as soon as the regional borders reopen. But things get complicated. With the first reopening Luca has to leave to Croatia. He’s got a lot of things to fix, he’s going to do it in a week. Time starts running and it becomes two weeks and then three. … The Sicily seems everyday more distant. Then, one day, he calls me: “Mate, why don’t you join me in Croatia? I’m setting up a crazy trail! Rough! All uphill! Come and try it and give me your feedback!”. It took 5 minutes, to me, to realize the impact on my programs. But just 5 minutes! In fact, I had a great idea: it was years that Alberto, my husband, was proposing to me to take a trip to Croatia but I have never felt so enthusiastic on this. This could be the right time. I could start some days before and then he could join me with the kids to spend some more days around. All seems perfect!

I book the boat for June 12th. I’m on the line, I already see myself in Croatia; but things got suddenly complicated. First, Al doesn’t have holidays from office, I have to go alone on the 12th and get back by the 20th. Then, even worst: there are no return ferries before the 28th… I can’t believe it. It’s a conspiracy! I’ve tried everything: train, bus, plane, car….. but there’s no way to organize the trip back until the end of June! I have to keep the dates . First departure available june 27 from Ancona.” I moved the date! I’m coming on the 27th!” But Luca doesn’t make a crease: “OK! Come whenever you want! I’m here!” He tells me with his Vicentino accent.

Finally the 27th comes. I’ve prepared everything. I’m really excited about this experience. I feel like I’m 20 years old and I’m in my first experience. “Mom, please, don’t get hurt!” Andrea, my youngest kid, yells at me as I load my bike on the train from Pescara to Ancona, where I will take the boat. Some strange thoughts run into my mind, but the doors close. The train’s running, the adventure begun.

Hvar Trail Holiday
Hvar Trail Holiday

I arrive at Hvar on 28 morning at 10.30am. After 2 hours of ferry from Split. Luca is at the port! Already on the bike. He’s kind to say: “Take some rest, we’ll leave early in the morning, the heat these days is hellish”. Let’s take a walk for Stari-Grad, explaining some details of trail. The mileage, the difference in altitude, the roads. He asks me how I put myself with the technique downhill because the funds are often cut off as well as steep. My face should appear perplexed, so he reassures me immediately: “Tomorrow I evaluate you! Maybe I could fire you! 🤣“. I don’t sleep at night. I’m soo nervous. I dreamed of this journey so long. I studied some, but not too much. I peeked at the photos that Luca posted as he traced the island, but I didn’t want to spoil the surprise. And I did well. The trail starts uphill, of course! One of those nice climbs, 10 km with gentle hairpin bends and fairly consistent slope not more than 10%. It goes up. You always go up. Luca warned me. There are no plains. Only climbs alternated with descents. Sweet climbs; Rough climbs; hanged climbs that does not rise, because in addition to being steep, they have a bumpy and slippery bottom. Sunny climbs. Infinitely long climbs. Deceptive climbs that let you think that you arrived at the top, while instead, behind the curve, there is another hidden climb. Climbs that when you get to the top you don’t believe it. Climbs that take your breath away, but when you arrive, reserve unimaginable surprises.

Hvar Trail Holiday
Hvar Trail Holiday

Hvar is weird. It has few roads, almost never coastal. To access the coves scattered along the entire perimeter of the island you have to face drops at sheer descents, quite not paved and almost never traveled. People don’t get there by land, but by sea. And they’re wild. There are no bars and organized beaches. Sometimes there are houses, accessible only by sea precisely. And then there’s the sea. A sea of blinding blue. Crystalline.You feel like you can touch the bottom. The hue changes with the light. What doesn’t change is the water temperature: FREEZY!

As you walk the ride you realize that if you want t to enjoy these incredible views you have to resign yourself to this continuous swing. So, let’s go, up and down. Luca drew the trail with care. He spent days with his partner Massimo turning and getting lost in a maze of streets unknown even to the islanders. And it has created a strenuous path but such that you fall in love with the island not only from a landscape point of view, but also for the food and the wine. He carefully selected the Konoba where to stop to eat and places to sleep and the welcome is always warm. And you can eat divinely. Octopus and lamb are a must-eat, but also the cured meats and cheeses, mostly of sheep and goat milk, are to be tasted. The people I met along the way reminded me the Abruzzo mountaineers that I usually cross when I ride “at home”: they are a bit gruff and maybe not expansive, but at the first smile they adopt you and easily open their soul to the foreigner.

Hvar Trail Holiday
Hvar Bikepacking
Hvar bikepacking

We spent the first three days this way, traveling about 280 km in Hvar. Sometimes we make slightly changes to the program, like when we should have slept in a camping, but finally we got overcome by tiredness and opted for a wild bikepacking, on a beach sunbed… We were already thinking to moving to Brac, but we decided along the way. There are still few tourists and boats do not travel at full capacity, so the only way to move is to know the people who make the connecting routes. And so we set out to discover Brac.

Brac bikepacking
Brac bikepacking

If Hvar is rough, Brac is even tougher. Apparently more developed than her sister, it’s actually wilder. Nothing can be found outside the towns. Roads are km and km uphill, under the sun, with no possibility of find water. Water in these places is a precious resource and there are no fountains. You have to consume it consciously and stock up enough for your needs. At first we planned to spend two days in Brac together, but then plans changed. Luca had to anticipate the return to Hvar while I decided to stop in Brac and spend some time alone. I had never experienced a night in tent alone. I was worried only thinking at that, but I decided to give a try and the satisfaction of living this experience alone was unimaginable. Loneliness exasperates thoughts, feelings and senses. It lays bare with ourselves. It forces us to face our fears and overcome them. And it makes us stronger. At the end of the lap, ready to return to Hvar I felt satisfied and happy ….. and in my twenties! Now we go home. It was an incredible experience. The ride is breathtakingly beautiful and can be covered in a more or less extreme way, depending on your needs! It’s an essential experience. I haven’t come back yet but I’m already thinking about how and when to come back again.

If you would like to take part in a similar adventure on the island of Hvar, check out the Hvar Trail & Holiday 2020. They are hosting a Hvar Trail & Holiday from 5th to 9th September 2020.

Partisan Hospital Feat

Running Back in Time – The Forgotten Partisan Hospital

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A few months ago, we featured a blogpost written by David Lavery of VeloCroatia about road cycling in Croatia – in the Petrova Gora region (south of Zagreb, near the border with Bosnia and Hercegovina) in particular. David got in touch again to share another fascinating account of his experiences of cycling in that area. This time round, he searches for the abandoned (and long forgotten) Partisan hospital that is hidden in the woods…

This really is a fascinating read, and especially of interest to anyone who likes their sights ‘off the beaten track’ and who is interested in the history of Croatia.

Running Back in Time – The Forgotten Partisan Hospital

Vojnic is a sleepy little place in Croatia where not much happens. Although all is quiet today this small farming village has seen more than its fair share of history. We were over visiting family on the farm near Vojnic for Christmas and I wanted to explore the woods on the slopes of Petrova Gora to find what remained of the Partisan hospital that operated, hidden, during World War Two.

In an effort to stave off the excess food of Christmas I took my running stuff and an unhealthy obsession for finally finding the hospital hidden somewhere in the woods.

I first found out about the rumours of the hospital when I was researching my cycle to the top of Petrova Gora to see the abandoned spomenik monument. The recent history of Croatia is nothing if not complicated and during World War Two, with Croatia aligned with the Axis a resistance movement formed. These partisans fought in the forests around Petrova Gora against the fascism sweeping the country.

In order to hide and treat the wounded, a hospital facility was built in the woods in a steep ravine called Pišin gaj in the spring of 1942 by partisan doctor Savo Zlatic and Jakov Kanjcevic Brada. As the war waged the facility grew to over thirty facilities and treated five thousand wounded and sick soldiers and civilians from the surrounding Kordun region.

Despite all of this it was never found by Axis forces. Given this I was not confident of finding it myself.

The bodies of over one thousand partisan fighters are interned in graves in the forest of Petrova Gora having succumb to their injuries during the fighting.

After the war, the facility was abandoned and largely forgotten as Yugoslavia emerged from the ashes of the war.

In 1961 the complex was refurbished and converted into a museum, eventually being awarded the “Order of National Hero” by Tito, the strongman of Yugoslavia. By all accounts this was a popular museum to visit and there was even a youth hostel built nearby at the edge of the ravine.

It was an altogether different war that finally put an end to the hospital complex. As Croatia fought a bloody independence war, the complex was extensively damaged during Operation Storm in 1995 and then fell into disrepair. The new state of neglect reflected a wider trend in the newly formed Croatia to collectively forget about anything to do with the partisans. Welcome to the world of politicking and the complexities of national identity.

It was my turn to find the hospital.

Attempt Number One – Lost in the woods. The wrong woods.

Just as during the war, my first attempt to find the hospital ended in abject failure. I parked the car at Lovački dom Muljava and started running along the gravel path into the woods more in hope than expectation. After a few weeks off running due to an injury, my legs were screaming immediately and not happy to be pointing up hill. On they went and were only stopped when the path abruptly ended at the river after around 3km. With nowhere to go I decided, mostly on a whim, to follow what looked like a path into the woods. Every path I took lead to nowhere and I was soon forced to admit defeat. These were just paths forged by the logging trucks and not paths to any hospital in the woods. I might be thirty-four years old but it turns out that I still get excited about the prospect of exploring in the woods so it wasn’t a complete waste of time.

David Lavery, VeloCroatia
My first attempt ended by simply getting lost in the woods. It was a vital reminder that Google Maps is not always available.

I got some exercise and fresh air and a renewed ambition to find the hospital. I would not be defeated.

Back at the farm I did more research and was quietly confident of finding the hospital on my next attempt.

Attempt Number Two – Finally found. Another reason I am better than the Nazis.

I parked the car at the side of the road and took a different approach into the woods. After three kilometers of running I found what used to be a youth hostel in the glory days of Yugoslavia. It is now completely lifeless but at least I knew that I was in the right area for the hospital.

Opposite to the hostel was a faint path leading up to the ridge in the forest and for lack of a better alternative I headed up in that direction, the forest silent but deafening in my isolation.

Petrova Gora Youth Hostel
The abandoned youth hostel. When you see this, look in the opposite direction for the path into the woods that leads eventually to the Partisan hospital.

I could glimpse the faint outline of buildings up ahead almost completely camouflaged in the dense forest. As I got closer its full form emerged and I had finally, after many fruitless attempts, found what remained of the partisan hospital.

Steps to the Partisan Hospital complex
The path leading into the woods that will take you to the hospital complex.

When I reached the grounds of the hospital I was suddenly struck by how alone I was. In the distance I could hear the rattle and hum of loggers but around me was nothing but silence broken only by the flutter of birds and twigs snapping under my feet.

The Partisan Hospital complex
The remains of the Partisan hospital complex. Hard to believe that 5000 soldiers and civilians were treated here during the war.

Further into the forest the unmarked crosses stood proud among the trees. The graves of one thousand brave partisans apparently all but forgotten and now part of the forest.

Petrova Gora unmarked graves by the Partisan Hospital complex
The unmarked graves to the 1000 bodies buried on the slopes of Petrova Gora.

Despite the isolation, when I closed my eyes I could see the life that once stood and fought here. This small corner of Croatia, unremarkable in so many ways, has been at the crossroads of many turbulent events; first during world war two and then during the Croatian war of independence in the 1990’s.

After exploring what remains of the hospital, I made my way back down the hill and ran back to the car back the way I came. Back in the summer I tried to find the hospital on my bike, my road bike struggling on what used to be a road but was now more of a stream. I realised today that if I had just cycled another two hundred yards around the next corner I would have found it.

Despite the many failed attempts to find the hospital and getting lost in the process, the effort in the end was absolutely worth it. Without hyperbole, it is one of the most amazing things I have ever seen in my life. The fact that it is now abandoned, forgotten and has no appetite to be seen means that if you do visit you will be alone with only your thoughts.

Grave of Jakov Kanjcevic Brada
A grave marking to Jakov Kanjcevic Brada, the founder of the original hospital.

There cannot be many sights in the world, sights of such historical significance, that give the feeling that you alone have stumbled upon them.

David Lavery, VeloCroatia
Proud to have finally found the hospital. This is the kind of run experience that you can never get from the gym!

Getting There

From Vojnic, drive east on Ul. Andrije Hebranga 32 which then turns into Gornji Vojnic where you can follow signs for Lovački dom Muljava (a good place for a coffee and a crepe if it is open when you visit).

As you continue you will see a sign pointing to a road on the right for the hospital (it is quite faint and in Croatian obviously so it is easy to miss). The road has seen better days and since I wanted to run, I left my car near this junction just off the main road. If you have a 4×4 type car then I would imagine the road is passable but certainly when I went it was rutted and had half turned into a river.

The run from here to the stairs to the youth hostel which marks the entrance to the hospital is only 2.2km up a gentle slope.

When you reach the youth hostel on your left, look to the right for the faint trail/ stairs that lead into the woods and to the hospital.

The exact coordinates for the hospital complex are; 45°17’44.1″N 15°45’18.2″E

Vojnic – An Unsuspecting Crossroads in Croatia

It only takes a minute to drive through the village of Vojnic and most people will pass through without realising that it stands at the crossroads of some pivotal events in recent history.

Apart from the partisan hospital, the area also saw heavy action during the Croatian war of independence. Rockets were fired from here by the Serbian aggressors towards Zagreb, a war crime that killed seven civilians.

As the war encroached into Bosnia, refugees spilled into the area. Just at the bottom of the farm is a field that once held thousands of refugees in squalid conditions. Even today when it rains heavily, nappies used in this very field get washed onto the farm.

And even now Vojnic, because of its proximity to the Bosnian border, is a popular passing place form immigrants fleeing war in the middle east and trying to get to Europe. I have seen a few young men stopped by the side of the road by the police, destined to be thrown back across the border to try again in the future.

The common thread running through all of this is war; then and even now.

Thank you, David, for sharing your experiences of searching for this amazing place. You can read the original post on David’s website here: Running Back in Time – The Forgotten Partisan Hospital.