Croatian Railways on the BBC
Railway enthusiasts and viewers of a certain age (an age I now am, I must add) delight in the gentle travel programmes Greatest British Railway Journeys and Great Continental Railway Journeys on BBC2, both hosted by former politician Michael Portillo. This past week, viewers may have been pleasantly surprised when the new series – number eight of Great Continental Railway Journeys, no less – featured Croatia! And not just Croatia, but mostly the Croatian coast! How did Michael manage the trains and railway journeys on the Croatian coast to make a whole (half) series based in Croatia?
Well, it turns out, that the actually travelling by train part of the episodes is perhaps a little thin on the ground. Indeed, some parts of the Croatian adventure – one that starts in Pula in Istria and ends in Dubrovnik, via Opatija, Rijeka, Zadar, Sibenik, Split and Sarajevo and Mostar in Bosnia – are clearly very much not undertaken by train. (And I know what you’re all thinking – Dubrovnik doesn’t even have a train station!)
The programme is definitely worth a watch nevertheless, and it’s always lovely to see Croatia’s most stunning self on television – BBC or otherwise! It’s a fairly whistlestop tour that covers a good amount of ground, with some locations featured just for a minute or two.
This travel series is definitely not just a travel series as keen historian Michael often also takes a look back in history. In fact, as Secretary of State for Defence for the UK government from 1995 to 1997, Michael Portillo would have been involved in negotiations regarding the wars in the former Yugoslavia, which he references in the show. It’s no surprise to see elements of Croatia’s history – from the ancient past to 20th-century events – often mentioned throughout each episode.
Part 1: A Roman start in Istria
Istria is Michael’s starting point, with Pula the first stop on his train journey. (He actually starts the episode on a train, although it’s not shown where from!)
A visit to the Arena in Pula is a must, of course, and Michael joins in with a gladiatorial mock fight that looks a little too real at times. But it’s the start of looking back at Pula and Istria in Roman times, which includes an intensive look at olive trees and olive growing, a practice which has taken place in Istria over the centuries and certainly undertaken by the Romans.
My favourite part of this episode takes place in Vodnjan train station – first opened in 1876 – and is a true look at Croatian railways. Michael dresses up like a Croatian railway stationmaster and learns more about the workings of the station and some of its rather archaic but still functioning kit. He even telephones the next station to confirm the departure of a train – as the real stationmasters do.
Somewhat surprisingly for a train travel programme, the Brijuni islands – which are of course reached by boat – are also featured. (There is a small tourist “train” on the islands, I suppose they could have shown that!) The islands are shown to their full gorgeousness, including a glimpse of the Roman ruins and the safari park. There’s a fairly lengthy part on Tito – for the islands were the base for his holiday home and lucky Michael even gets a ride in Tito’s Cadillac.
Part 2: Truffles and the birthplace of tourism, and cheese
If you’re in Istria, you must experience truffles in some way and there’s no exception at the beginning of this episode. Michael is joined by adorable labrador Lela (who apparently gets angry by not going truffle hunting two or three times a day!) and her human (of Karlic Tartufi). The gnocchi truffle dish he cooks with his hosts looks amazing!
Crossing over into the Kvarner region, a larger electric train is introduced with a view from the driver’s cab given a show. It’s on to Opatija to explore the birthplace of tourism in Croatia, as the town was established as a holiday and health resort for the well-to-do in Austro-Hungarian society in the late 19th century. A journey to Rijeka follows to explore its rather unusual early 20th-century history. The city existed as a free state led by Italian Gabriele D’Annunzio after World War I and then as an independent city-state – the Free State of Fiume – for four years from 1920 to 1924 before being taken over by Italy. Much of this part of the programme in fact focuses on this Italian connection and the Italian history of Rijeka.
It’s unclear how the leap to Prizna further down the coast is made (not by train, I would imagine) but from here the action moves to the island of Pag. Which is excellent, both for a glimpse of its highly unusual landscape but also to be able to witness something the island is most famous for – its sheep’s cheese.
Part 3: Moving on to central Dalmatia
Zadar is shown in all of its glory – just look at those glorious rooftops! But it’s a focus on maraschino liqueur made from locally grown Marasca cherries – a drink invented by Venetian Francesco Drioli at a time when Zadar was part of the Venetian Empire – that brings Michael to Zadar. He then proceeds to have not one but two maraschino drinks. Well, why not?!
Next comes something I must admit I know little about – the Krka Hydroelectric Power Plant close to Krka National Park which was first put into operation as long ago as 1895. This plant allowed nearby Sibenik to be one of the first towns in the world with electric street lighting! The plant closed in the early part of the 20th century, but its successor – the Jaruga Hydroelectric Power Plant – is still in operation today.
Stunning Trogir is shown as the destination – a brief stop to explore some traditional, and very beautiful Croatian tailoring.
Split rounds off the end of this episode, as you may imagine. Michael does much to extol the amazing fact that Diocletian’s Palace, the retirement home for this Roman emperor, is at the centre of the city. What remains of the Palace is not merely a pile of ruins in some far-flung corner, no – the Palace is at the very heart of the city and is still “in use” today. The Cathedral of St Domnius, one of the oldest Catholic cathedrals in the world, is the site for a discussion on religion in Croatia and the wider region.
Part 4: Sarajevo and Mostar
Michael mysteriously crosses the border into Bosnia and Hercegovina but good news – he’s immediately on a train! He arrives at Sarajevo’s grand main train station and heads to the Old Quarter of the city to explore one of the main mosques there. It’s no surprise to listen to him talking quite extensively about the assassination of Archduke Ferdinand in 1914, as many travel programmes based in Sarajevo do.
Perhaps more relevant to the show’s main subject matter is the exploration of the railway expansion of Yugoslavia – and Bosnia in particular – after World War II, helped in large part by the youth work brigades of the country. Rail travel of sorts continues as he travels on the cable car up Trebevic Mountain as well as embarking on a short trip on a tram which takes him to the home of a Sarajevo local who cooks a typical Bosnian dish.
Part 5: On to Dubrovnik
Michael then travels on what he calls one of the most scenic railway journeys in Europe, the route from Sarajevo to Mostar. This 129-kilometre journey travels over 48 bridges and through more than 90 tunnels. One part involves a series of sharp hairpin bends to account for a very steep descent. The scenery of this part of the programme will surely will entice many a railway enthusiast onto this same journey. And what’s this – cevapcici can be bought as a snack on the train? Heaven!
Heading back into Croatia, there’s a spot about the Peljesac Bridge, with Michael praising the newish bridge which opened in 2022. He even climbs inside the bridge – you’ll see what I mean if you watch the show – to learn more about how the bridge was constructed.
The final stop, the city of Dubrovnik, beckons and here is somewhere Michael claims he first visited on holiday in the 1960s. Of course, Dubrovnik’s highly fascinating history is explained, before a final experience of some traditional culture of Dubrovnik and Croatia is experienced – with the dance and music of the Lindjo folklore band as they perform in front of the Church of St Blaise.
More info
Whilst the episodes were broadcast daily on BBC the week beginning 10th March 2025, all episodes can be viewed on iPlayer online – at Great Continental Railway Journeys – or on your smart device or through the iPlayer app.
If Michael Portillo has inspired you to make more train journeys in Croatia, take a look at our guide to Trains in Croatia.
