Visit Croatia Review: Advent in Zagreb
I had the very pleasant experience of visiting Zagreb this past weekend and enjoying one of its prime attractions – the Advent in Zagreb Christmas celebrations. Read on to find out what I thought in my review: Advent in Zagreb.
(Then, once you’ve read this review, book yourself a flight – or other mode of transport – and get yourself to Zagreb!)
What is Advent in Zagreb?
Taking place from 30th November 2004 to 6th January 2025, Advent in Zagreb is the large-scale Christmas celebration (and for New Year too, when the time comes!) that takes over so much of the city. Many of Zagreb’s squares, main streets, parks, museums and more are taken over with pretty Christmas decorations, with a number of different markets selling festive food and drink and Christmas trinkets. There are also lovely interactive installations in certain locations, such as in the Gric Tunnel.
You can read more about what’s actually on here: Advent in Zagreb 2024.
Let’s go back to this “festive food and drink” that you mentioned…
Yes, let’s, because you know what’s even better than regular food and drink? Festive food and drink! Also, judging by the crowds at some of the food stalls, this seems to be everyone’s priority!
The absolute top spot for food and drink is Fuliranje in Strossmayer Park which has so many different options. Sausages are practically everywhere (served in a bun with toppings of your choosing) but you can also opt for inventive versions of mac and cheese, pizza, sandwiches, noodles and more.
Fuliranje does get crazy busy in the evenings, however. If your mission is to knock back a drink or three and have fun with friends, definitely come down to Fuliranje on an evening. If you’re simply hungry and want to sample as many of the different food options, try it during the daytime!
There is also a smaller Fuliranje setup on the terrace of the five-star Hotel Esplanade. The food options here are slightly more upscale – including stalls from the hotel itself and the Michelin-starred Noel Restaurant, for example – so I would recommend heading here if you fancy trying something slightly different.
Music, music, everywhere
There seemed to be music playing absolutely everywhere I turned, certainly in every marketplace. Many times it was a DJ playing, but my musical highlight was in Zrinjevac Park where different bands played live music in the evenings. And they were truly excellent, drawing rather large and very merry crowds of all ages.
There are other special musical events taking place throughout Advent in Zagreb at certain dates and times. I caught the end of a Zagreb Soloists classical concert at the Zagreb City Museum on Sunday morning which was wonderfully stirring. Another gem was the lighting of the lantern at the base of Lotrscak Tower (which takes place at 4.30pm on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays) which was accompanied by the excellent acapella group Klapa Kana G.
Take a look at some of the musical highlights of Advent in Zagreb to find out what’s happening when.
Highlights of Advent in Zagreb
Zrinjevac
My absolute favourite Advent in Zagreb spot was Zrinjevac Park. The organisers have done such a good job of decorating the park’s trees, greenery and fountains to give it a really magical feel. The photos (or maybe just my photos!) don’t do it justice. The park’s main avenue hosts a number of little wooden huts with Christmas and other lovely souvenirs on sale – for the most part fairly unique and great quality, no tourist tat here!
The central part of this park is the bandstand which featured live music every evening (see above) which really put everyone in a happy, party mood. Around the bandstand were food and drink stalls, and I spied St Nicholas walking through the crowds, occasionally doling out a small present to a young child.
Santa also gives sleigh rides (actually in a horse-drawn carriage) around Zrinjevac although I sadly didn’t witness this. (Technical difficulties meant these rides couldn’t operate on Saturday night. I blame Rudolf.)
Ledeni Park Ice Skating Rink
As you walk south from Ban Jelacic Square through Zrinjevac Park and then through Strossmayer Square/Park (where Fuliranje is), you’ll come to Tomislav Square (in front of the Art Pavilion) in the next block. It is here that Ledeni Park (ice park in English) is located, a large-scale ice skating rink. And such a beautiful one at that! Gorgeously decorated – with the imposing Art Pavilion, all lit up, providing a grand backdrop – the ice rink has one central rectangular rink. There are then two ice paths that go around the edge of the park which is such a great idea – allowing the flow of skaters to pass by quickly.
Not being the biggest fan of ice skating (despite taking ice skating lessons in my youth!) I didn’t get my skates on, but it was lovely to watch the young (and young-ish) people of Zagreb – as well as many visitors – whizzing by.
There are also some food and drink stalls here and they were much quieter than those in the other parks and on the main square. So Ledeni Park is a good place to head to if you don’t fancy waiting in long queues for food! There are a number of high tables set next to the rink for watching, as well as a large elevated cafe-style area which is an ideal spot to climb up to for a wonderful view.
Christmas Tram
I’ve always loved trams as a method of public transport, so Zagreb’s blue trams have a special place in my heart. For Advent in Zagreb, there’s a special Christmas tram – adorned with all sorts of Christmas decorations, including a large Santa hat on the front – that operates on a special loop starting and ending on the main square, Trg ban Jelacic. It’s a very fun and unique experience!
There are two trams that operate as a Christmas tram – a modern tram and a 100-year-old tram! (Yes, really!) Try and go on the old tram if you can to get a really special experience; I believe this tram departs on the hour and half past the hour.
So what happens on board? Well, you travel with Santa and Mrs Claus who generally make jokes and have a bit of a back-and-forth (in Croatian) and get everyone excited and happy. We were put through our paces of a round of “If You’re Happy and You Know It…” (again, in Croatian) whilst the rest of the time Christmas music (of course including Mariah) played in the background. Santa tried to have a bit of fun with the younger travellers by asking them silly questions – this time in English and Italian too, depending on the child – on his microphone and at the end the kids could also take a photo with him and Mrs Claus if they weren’t too scared. (Why is it that some young kids are terrified of Santa?) The kids were also given a couple of chocolate bars as a treat towards the end of the journey.
All in all, a must! And it’s very nice to see Zagreb’s trams used in this special way.
Things to know:
- Tickets for the tram cost €5 per person and can be bought at the special booth on the corner of the main square and Praska Street. This is also where the tram departs.
- The Christmas tram operates with departures every 15 minutes from Monday to Thursday, 4pm to 7pm; on Fridays, 12pm to 4pm; and on Saturdays and Sundays, 10am to 4pm.
- Note that at busy times you will need to buy a ticket in advance of your journey. Meaning that you might turn up to buy a ticket at 12.30pm, but the next tram that has a free seat is at 2pm.
- Journey time is just under 30 minutes
Trg ban Jelacic
Of course, I can’t not mention Zagreb’s main square as a highlight of Advent in Zagreb. It’s here that the main Christmas tree – a 16-metre tall fir tree – is positioned, right next to the statue of Ban Jelacic himself. Good ol’ Josip isn’t decorated in any way, but behind him a large LED-lit “2025” has been hung on a building, whilst to the right of him stands a little festive forest with the main “ADVENT ZAGREB” sign. A prime photo opportunity!
The main square is also home to Mandusevac Fountain, which traditionally is the location of the four advent candles. I think the decoration and “candles” around the fountain look so pretty, a big thumbs up to whoever thought of it originally.
Further to the edge of the square are the stalls selling food and drink, centred around a stage where most times I heard a DJ “spinning” tunes. Among these food stalls are large-scale decorations depicting famous elements of Zagreb – such as Gric cannon, an old-fashioned Sljeme cable car, a wooden version of Princess Manduša and others.
Polar Express in Gric Tunnel
Gric Tunnel – running west of the main square – is often the location for interesting art installations should there be a special event taking place in Zagreb. Advent in Zagreb is no exception, and this year there’s an audiovisual interpretation of the animated film The Polar Express. It’s a rather magical experience, despite being relatively simple – the tunnel certainly creates some of the magic. Look out for a mini train above you about halfway through the tunnel!
Fritule
These mini doughnut balls are a must. Have them for breakfast, lunch and dinner and then a late-night snack too. Try a different topping each time!
Advent in Zagreb 2024’s most infamous fritule offering – if doughnut offerings can be infamous – was something called Dubai Fritule. These fritule are topped with a melted version Dubai chocolate – kataifi pastry that’s covered in pistachio and tahini and then chocolate. Apparently Dubai chocolate is a viral sensation…well, I’ve not heard of it before!
Whilst these fritule are apparently fantastic, they do cost a whopping €11.10, so save up before you buy a portion. A hearty portion of “normal” fritule, which is easily enough for two people (or one very greedy Visit Croatia) go for around €5.
Hot festive drinks
Is it just me who thinks mulled wine is the only hot festive drink? (Putting hot chocolate to one side for a minute.)
Imagine my surprise to find white “cooked wine” (as it’s called kuhano vino in Croatian) which is far more delicious to drink. (Top tip for Brits: Marks and Spencer are apparently selling this for the first time this Christmas, so stock up!)
And then further surprise at the offer of HOT GIN! Like regular gin but hot, with a few spices and a lemon slice. Immense, the perfect winter drink. (Hey, Marks and Spencer – want a drink idea for Christmas 2025?!)
What is called “Hot Pelin” is certainly also worth a try. It is made with Pelinkovac, a Croatian herbal liqueur that has some health benefits. (Of course it does.)
H
I spotted other hot festive cocktails on offer – including something intriguing with whiskey – but didn’t partake. But I would recommend you try it!
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Review: Advent in Zagreb Conclusion
Wonderful!
Seriously, I thoroughly enjoyed Advent in Croatia, and I think you will too! It’s a very merry and very festive Christmas event that’s easy to get to and easy to walk from place to place.
Zagreb was also truly bustling with locals and visitors from other countries (I mostly overheard Italian, German and Spanish voices, with some Brits here and there) which was great to see.
Have a look at my recap video below to see some of the best highlights:
You can read more about Advent in Zagreb on the official website: www.adventzagreb.hr/en.
Helpful info
Check out Visit Croatia’s full guide to Zagreb for everything to see and do in the city – including accommodation, transport, sightseeing, eating and drinking.
Our itinerary for Two Days in Zagreb might give you further ideas for what to do beyond Advent in Zagreb!
Finally, take a look at our Getting to Zagreb page for information on the best ways of reaching the city, including flights from the UK, Ireland, Europe and further afield.
On you’re in Zagreb, be sure to pick up a copy of the Advent in Zagreb guide from the tourist office on the main square. It has a FULL (very full) listing of everything that’s taking place during the event. (*Whispers* more so than the official website!)
