Overlooked by the more famous Hvar Town and the increasingly popular Stari Grad, the small town of Jelsa on the northern side of Hvar is absolutely worth considering as a holiday destination. As it’s perhaps third on the list in terms of Hvar island towns, Jelsa attracts fewer visitors and is somewhat cheaper, but definitely not any less enjoyable. It is easy to reach and also a good base for exploring the rest of Hvar. The town is surrounded by fragrant trees (thanks to its location near a freshwater source) and is near a number of lovely beaches and coves. Give Jelsa a go!
The night-time procession Za Krizen on Maundy Thursday (before Easter) takes place in and in villages near Jelsa.
The population of the town is 1,800 people, although there are around 3,500 people who live here and in the neighbouring villages.
Getting to Jelsa
There are a couple of direct catamarans to Jelsa from Split on the mainland.
Jadrolinija run a year-round catamaran service from Split via Bol to Jelsa. Journey time is 1 hour 30 minutes from Split, and only 20 minutes from Bol.
Krilo Shipping Company run a daily catamaran service in summer (mid-May to the end of September) that takes 1 hour 40 minutes. This route also stops at Bol on the island of Brac along the way. (It takes 40 minutes to travel from Bol to Jelsa.)
Should you wish to reach Jelsa by car, you would need to take the frequent car ferry from Split to Stari Grad on Hvar. It would then be an easy 15-minute drive over to Jelsa. Alternatively, especially if you are driving up from the southern Croatian coast, you can get the short car ferry over to Sucuraj on the eastern side of Hvar.
Getting Around
Bus company Cazmatrans operates bus services on the island of Hvar. These routes run reasonably regularly every day, connecting Jelsa with Stari Grad, the main ferry port near Stari Grad, Hvar Town and Vrboska.
Taxis are available that will also take you around the island.
Things to See and Do in Jelsa
Activities
For something a bit special, why not take to the skies above the island and see it from an entirely different viewpoint. Panoramic Flights Croatia offer several different flights that take off from Hvar Airfield (which is located roughly halfway between Jelsa and Stari Grad). These range from a 30-minute sightseeing flight of Hvar for €380 (for a maximum of 3 people) to longer flights that fly over more of the neighbouring islands or even over locations on the mainland such as Krka National Park.
If you need to get some action and adventure into your holiday, pop over to Adventure Park Jelsa. Here you can do all sorts of fun and slightly zany activities – paintball, zorbing, axe throwing (!), archery and much more.
Beaches
Mina Beach is one of the closest to the town, and is a popular choice as it has good facilities – a shower, water rental equipment, bars/cafes – and is right by a wooded area which provides much-needed shade. Set in a pretty bay, it’s also that rare thing – a sandy beach.
Further east still from the above along the same road is Grebisce Beach, which is also sandy. Again, the good facilities here (shade, beach furniture rental, a beachside cafe) mean it draws in the visitors.
Vitarnja Beach is a small beach north of the town. A little off the beaten track, you will be rewarded with gorgeous surroundings and wonderfully clear water.
Sights
The main harbour in Jelsa is a pretty place to stroll through, and just off it is Pjaca, the main square in the town.
The Parish church of Saints Fabian and Sebastian is considered to be the oldest building here, first mentioned in 1331. It was turned into a fortress in the 16th century to protect against attacks from the Turks. The bell tower was added in the late 19th century.
Dobrovic House is an art gallery and museum that displays the works of Hvar artist Juraj Dobrovic (born in 1928), who lived in this very house. The house also displays items of interest from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, typical to island life.
The Viticulture Collection in nearby Pitve houses items used in the production of winemaking from the 19th and 20th centuries.
Above the town is the historic watchtower Tor, partially rebuilt but with the original structure thought to be from the 3rd or 4th century BC. You can only visit Tor on foot, and it is about a 40-minute, reasonably demanding walk. You do pass through some lovely Hvar countryside, so it is a rewarding walk! Additionally, at 235 metres above sea level, you will encounter stunning views over to Brac island. A detour to the walk would lead you to the remains of Galesnik Fortress.
Excursions
You can certainly enjoy exploring everything Hvar has to offer from the base of Jelsa. Top day trip options on the island itself include a wine and/or culinary tour and, depending on the time of year, exploring Hvar’s famous lavender fields. Ask at a local agency to book yourself onto any such tour or take a look at Private and Traditional Culinary Experience in Jelsa, which is a four-hour experience during which you will make traditional dishes.
Events in Jelsa
The Jelsa Trail running event takes place in April in and around the town. This lovely event connects many important elements of Hvar – for starters, it takes place on the same route on which the religious Easter Za Krizen procession does, and the trail also runs past some of the historic stone walls (known as the Stari Grad Plain).\
Dječji val (“Children’s Wave”) is a children’s festival that takes place in June and encourages learning, fun and play! Expect film screenings, workshops, sports and similar.
The Hvar Climbing Festival takes place every June near Jelsa.
The Jesla Wine Festival is a very long-standing event, having first taken place in 1952! Held at the end of August each year, it’s an excellent opportunity to sample local wines.
Jelsa also hosts a Summer Festival series of events from June to September each year, which includes music, gastro elements, kids’ events and more.
Eating and Drinking in Jelsa
Masha Vegeteria is that rare thing for Croatia – a vegetarian and vegan restaurant! Beautifully prepared, filling dishes are offered here that will delight all visitors. Or pop by for a coffee or a cocktail!
Me and Mrs Jones is a much-loved place that offers traditional Dalmatian and Croatian food with a twist – and in a gorgeous setting. Located right by the seafront, this is a vibrant and welcoming place. If you’re not sat at a table outside, you’ll still get plenty of the charm indoors too. Opt for dishes such as fuzi pasta, homemade ravioli, grilled lamb or beef tagliata. But you won’t go wrong with one of the fish options, such as the platter or the tuna steak. If you’re having a special night, treat yourself to the lobster!
Enjoy the wide variety of house specialities at the long-standing Murvica, from seafood to steaks, pasta to pizza.
Vina Tomic is a well-loved wine producer on Hvar, producing versions of the well-known Posip and Plavac/Plavac Mali wines, but also – for example – Bogdanusa, which is made from a grape that originates on Hvar. You can visit their wine cellar in the town to take part in tastings with or without food. Or – what I love the sound of – a private Ancient Roman tasting for which you don togas!
Accommodation in Jelsa
There are a couple of hotels in the town, as well as a plentiful selection of apartments and villas. Hotel Hvar is a three-star affair located on a forested hill just outside of town, with an all-inclusive offering for its guests. The hotel has an outdoor pool and is just steps away from the beach, and also has an on-site restaurant. The two-star Fontana Resort is also a short walk away from the centre of the town, with two pools, a restaurant and bar, and a fitness centre. Again, this hotel is very close to a beach. The Fontana Resort may not offer luxury, but it is well located and decent value for the price.
If you’re after another hotel option, consider the 4-star Aminess Senses Hvar Resort in nearby Vrboska. This smart, modern hotel has an outdoor pool, direct access to a beach, a restaurant, a spa and wellness centre and is situated in lush grounds.
Otherwise, take a look at what villa and apartment options are available using the map below:
Campsites
For camping, you won’t go wrong at Kamp Grebisce, a family-owned eco campsite that’s set in absolutely stunning nature. Located by two small sandy beaches with shallow waters (making it an excellent choice for families). The campsite is set up to accept tents or campervans, with different-sized pitches (with different facilities) available. There’s also a relaxing beachside lounge bar if you don’t feel like catering your group!
Camp Mina is a larger camp, being able to accommodate 200 guests, and is close to the centre of Jelsa. There are sports facilities and a lovely beach located by the camp.
Camp Holiday is another larger campsite that accepts tents and camper vans. It also has a luxury glamping option with seven such tents available.
More info
Learn more about this sweet town on the Jelsa Tourist Board website.