Visit Croatia Review: Grand Hotel Brioni, Pula – luxury rest and relaxation on a stunning part of the Istrian coast

I was lucky enough to visit and stay at the Grand Hotel Brioni on a short trip this past weekend to escape the English winter (also known as the summer of 2024). Read up on my experiences of staying and enjoying this gorgeous hotel and all it has to offer, as well as the town of Pula and the local area.

About the Grand Hotel Brioni

The first Radisson Collection Hotel in Croatia, the Grand Hotel Brioni has a long tradition of luxury and elegance. The hotel first opened in 1972 as the Hotel Brioni and many times welcomed dignitaries and celebrities of the day as guests. Yugoslavian President Josip Broz Tito often stayed here (his summer residence on the Brijuni islands is nearby; more on that later) as did famous figures such as Sophia Loren and Abba. A casino license in that decade even drew regular gambling guests from the U.S., making use of the – unbelievably – direct flights from New York to Pula that existed back then.

An extensive refurbishment at the start of this decade saw the 227-room hotel brought back up to present-day opulence and it reopened to guests in 2022. The Grand Hotel Brioni has clearly immediately made its mark; it was named the best luxury hotel in Croatia last year, out of 68 five-star hotels in the country.

The Grand Hotel Brioni (Credit: Jason Alden)
The Grand Hotel Brioni (Credit: Jason Alden)

First impressions – and they are good

Back to the present. This luxury five-star hotel immediately puts my mind in relaxation mode from the minute I enter, with calming colours in the marble lobby, highlighted with items in different shades of the hotel’s signature blue. The natural materials used in the hotel’s furnishings and furniture are apparent. It’s a wonderfully tranquil first impression.

The personal welcome is top-notch, with one of the most relaxed check-ins I’ve experienced. My passport details are dealt with (not always so straightforward in Croatia – if you know, you know) and I’ve gained my room’s keycard before I can even sample a welcome drink.

That’s when the first wow moment comes. Stepping into my second-floor, sea view room, my immediate split-second thought is about how wonderful the room is – before I’m drawn to an absolutely breathtaking view of the Adriatic Sea, the rest of Verudela Bay jutting out a short distance away and even the Brijuni islands visible further beyond.

I’m so entranced that I spent much of the weekend opening up the sliding doors of my room (32C heat be damned) to soak in as much of the beautiful view, calming sea colours and the sounds of the waves gently lapping on the beach below. The position of the room’s mirror right by the large sliding doors is a clever trick the hotel has clearly done deliberately, giving guests an immediately doubled view of all of the above.

Grand Hotel Brioni hotel room
A hotel room at the Grand Hotel Brioni – note the mirroring of the view

Grand Hotel Brioni – an infinity pool to die before…before being revived in the spa

I mention “the first wow moment” at this hotel for there are several more to come during my stay. From my room, I also spy the infinity pool – an 80-metre-long seawater pool that stretches all along what looks to be the hotel’s edge. “Inviting” is certainly one way to describe this pool, but once I finally take the plunge – literally – it’s even more magical. I can’t help but bob and hang by the edge of the infinity pool as it looks directly out over the sea. It’s hard to tear myself away, and even harder to not spend most of the afternoon posing there either. (I just about manage the former but totally fail on the latter.)

The 80-metre-long infinity pool at the Grand Hotel Brioni (Copyright Matthew Shaw)
The 80-metre-long infinity pool (Copyright Matthew Shaw)

The infinity pool is one of two at the hotel, the other being the indoor pool. Normally, a hotel’s indoor pool is the poor little sister of the outdoor one but not here. Swim in this indoor pool and you can enjoy the trick of being engulfed by different shades of shimmering blue water – as you look out from the pool over to the infinity pool and the Adriatic Sea beyond that.

The indoor pool is part of the extensive Gemma di Brioni spa and wellness centre that offers a wide range of facilities and treatments. These include facial treatments, non-invasive beauty treatments, body rituals, hydro massage baths, men’s treatments and of course massages. The Merveille Arctique Massage that I enjoyed involved the use of alternating hot and cold massage balls that aim to relax muscles and destress the body. “Aim” is a misleading word to use here, for the massage absolutely does its job, and I find myself on the point of falling asleep on the massage table as I’m so relaxed.

The saunas at the Gemma di Brioni spa
The saunas at the Gemma di Brioni spa – the Icefall (ice used to rub onto the body) can be seen on the right
Grand Hotel Brioni indoor pool
The indoor pool at the Grand Hotel Brioni (Copyright Matthew Shaw)

Hotel guests can also use the spa and wellness centre without booking a treatment, enjoying two types of sauna, a steam room and what the hotel calls a “water paradise” – four showers offering different sensations lined up in a path. There is also a large relaxation room to get into a fully zen headspace, but even the spa’s waiting areas offer complete calm.

Let’s talk about the food…and wine

Very undeservingly, Istrian food and wine is not as well known as it should be. Really, the region should be one of the most talked about gastro regions in the world. And I don’t mean that lightly. The quality of the ingredients (including local specialities such as truffle and olive oil, plus fish and seafood), the inventiveness of the cooking and presentation, and the warm and knowledgeable way dishes are presented

The Grand Hotel Brioni has five restaurants to sample some of the Istrian specialities, including the more relaxed poolside Brioni Giardini Restaurant or the Brioni Lungo Mare overlooking the beach. Buffet breakfasts and dinners are served in the Brioni Forum Restaurant. Both have a wonderful choice of dishes; of course, there is pasta, meat, seafood, salad and charcuterie options (for dinner…I probably don’t need to point out) but each is served in a typically Istrian (or Croatian) way.

It is the Sophia Restaurant (named in tribute to Italian actress Sophia Loren) which is the gem in the Grand Hotel Brioni’s restaurant offering, and at least one dinner here during your stay is an absolute must. Yes, it is meat-heavy but that’s to my delight, and items such as the tartare, carpaccio and expertly cooked and served steak are simply divine. Even the pre-meal bread and accompanying olive oil and homemade salts – such as gin and lime – are superb.

Pula – The ultimate city break

I spent much of my stay thinking about how Pula is the ultimate UK weekend break destination. With a flight time of just under two hours (from London), you can get settled into life on the twinkling Adriatic Sea in no time at all. A hotel stay somewhere such as the Grand Hotel Brioni gives you the perfect base for Pula, with time to rest poolside or on the beach before heading into town. (The centre of Pula is only an easy 15-minute taxi ride away, or can also be reached by local bus for just €2.)

Pula is a truly charming town. Not especially big, to be honest (it has a population of just over 50,000 people), but it is certainly the kind of place you want to be near when you’re on a luxury break. The town is easily walkable so once you’re there, there’s no need to do anything but stroll between sights, stopping off at a cafe or three for an iced coffee or a glass of local Malvazija wine.

Pula Arena, set up for screenings for the Pula Film Festival
Pula Arena, set up for screenings for the Pula Film Festival

And boy, what sights. A smattering of Roman sights, the crown jewel of course being the 1st century AD Roman amphitheatre, the Arena. The weekend I was there, the Arena was fully set up for the 71st edition of the Pula Film Festival (the longest-running film festival in Croatia) although it was still possible to enter and explore the amphitheatre during the daytime. But The Arena also hosts concerts throughout the summer months, with Dua Lipa having performed there in early June, and concerts from Duran Duran and Lenny Kravitz coming later this month. Legends such as Elton John have also appeared in the past.

Pula Arena

I was equally as fascinated by a more modern-yet-still-histroic sight – the Zerostrasse Tunnels. Built during World War I, the tunnels were intended to provide a shelter for the town’s citizens as well as an ammunition store, communications network and more. The tunnels apparently could potentially shelter all of Pula’s citizens even today. Thankfully, they are used as an attraction and house an exhibition on Pula’s old tram transport. They can also be used to access the 17th-century fortress Kastel (Castle) for fantastic views all around.

Make like a celeb of days gone by and head to the Brijuni Islands

A short ride away from the Grand Hotel Brioni is the coastal village of Fazana from where the public ferry to Veliki Brijun of the Brijuni Islands departs. As I’ve mentioned, President Tito had his summer residence on the islands – although, as the Tito Museum exhibit sign on the islands implies, his idea of summer was apparently six months long. It was here that he also hosted many world leaders and others; even our very own Queen Elizabeth II was a guest.

Brijuni Islands sea
Crystal-clear water by the Brijuni islands…and then some!

The islands are one of Croatia’s eight national parks and perhaps not as well known as Plitvice or Krka. Very different indeed (no lakes or islands here), the Brijuni islands are still magical in their own way. The archipelago contains 14 islands in total (the smallest, Supinic, appears to be barely more than a rock) and is full of quiet coves and bays with crystal-clear waters. A tourist train takes you on a gentle tour around the majority of sights on the largest island with a guide providing information. If you go for a private guide, ask for the very impressive Sanja who is as knowledgeable as she is entertaining.

The greenery of the Brijuni Islands - the Momument to Sony (another previous elephant resident) can be seen
The greenery of the Brijuni Islands – the Momument to Sony (another previous elephant resident) can be seen

The islands are an exciting mish-mash of sights and experiences, from a 12th-century tower, the oldest building here, to an 18-hole golf course; dinosaur footprints (yes, really!) to 160 plant and tree varieties from all over the world in the Mediterranean Garden; an olive tree that is 1,600 years old to a safari park containing animals that were presented as gifts to Tito over the years. In fact, almost all of the animals in the park today are descendants of the original gifts to Tito – apart from elephant Lanka (again, another “yes, really!) who arrived on Veliki Brijuni 50 years old as a two year old.

Year-round stays at the Grand Hotel Brioni

The Grand Hotel Brioni is one of those Croatian rarities – a coastal hotel that opens year-round. Whilst the Croatian coast offers so much for summer visitors, many won’t even entertain the idea of visiting at any point from November to March.

Whilst the weather in Pula and Istria does certainly become wintery, daytime temperatures usually only get to a low of about 10 or 11 degrees Celsius. Practically like the aforementioned English summer of 2024, in fact.

A stay at the hotel during winter or at least during off-season would allow you to really indulge in what the hotel has to offer – the excellent spa and its treatments, the indoor pool, the top restaurants – without your head being turned by the (understandably) endless pull of the sun and sea. And strolling around Pula in wintertime would also be wonderful.

More views of the Grand Hotel Brioni

Take a look at my little recap reel of my stay at the hotel:

More information

Visit the Grand Hotel Brioni website for full details of the hotel and to book a room, or see them on Instagram @grandhotelbrionipula or on @radissoncollection for their luxury holiday inspiration.

Visit Croatia stayed as a guest of the Grand Hotel Brioni. All views are Visit Croatia’s own.

Maslina Resort Colnago Boat

Maslina Resort’s new luxury boat to transfer passengers from Split Airport direct to Hvar

The recently opened Maslina Resort on the island of Hvar has announced an excellent new addition to its facilities that will surely delight all guests – a new luxury boat that will transport guests directly from Split Airport to the boutique property in only one hour.

Maslina Resort Colnago Boat
Colnago Boat
Colnago Boat
Maslina Resort Colnago Boat

The new luxury boat, a customised Colnago 45 TS, has been built by the Hvar-based Colnago family who have a long-standing tradition in designing and building luxury boats. The bespoke boat, specially commissioned by the Maslina Resort, measures 11.95 metres and can seat up to 12 guests and 2 crew members. This beautiful vessel is a modern take on the vintage luxury Colnago 45 TS, which perfectly aligns with the design aesthetics of resort; its design has been crafted with the utmost attention to the comfort of guests in mind.

With this new luxury boat being able to ferry guests direct from Split Airport on the mainland to the Maslina Resort on Hvar, there will no longer be a need for holidaymakers to transfer from the airport to the port and then wait for a catamaran or ferry to Hvar – a transfer time which can easily take two hours or more. The Colnago 45 TS will now enable guests to travel directly to the resort within an hour, seamlessly and in style! Maslina Resort staff will also be able to take care of the check-in process on board the boat, meaning that guests that enjoy the facilities of the resort as soon as they step ashore.

The 50-room hotel – which is also home to five villas – is set on an area of two hectares of lush pine forests, surrounded by olive groves and terraced vineyards, all overlooking the beautiful Adriatic Sea. The chic, five-star Relais & Chateaux property focuses on wellbeing, family, culture and authenticity for its guests.

Maslina Resort Terrace
The Terrace at Maslina Resort
Maslina Resort Room
A room at the Maslina Resort

Zoran Pejovic, the Development Director of the Maslina Resort, comments:

“Wellness is the core element of Maslina Resort. We want our guests to have a seamless and stress-free transfer so that they arrive at the hotel relaxed. Maslina Resort is a luxurious oasis and delivers a bespoke service to all our guests. This enhanced travel experience enforces our philosophy to be the best, and the addition of our custom-made boat reflects this. The transfer will also offer guests the opportunity to form deeper connections to the destination and environment as they take in the stunning vistas, blue skies and azure waters of the Adriatic Sea.”

Zoran Pejovic, Development Director of the Maslina Resort

For more details about the hotel and to book a stay there, please see the Maslina Resort website. Prices start from €240 per night for a Garden Suite, based on two adults sharing, excluding breakfast.

Location near Stari Grad
The boutique property’s location
Hostel Dalmatia

Hostel Dalmatia – where the mountains kiss the sea

If you’re thinking about a trip to the Dalmatian coast in the off season but are concerned that everywhere will be shut outside of the major towns and cities, don’t be! If you know where to look, there’s still plenty of places to enjoy!

One such place is Hostel Dalmatia, offering travellers a tranquil getaway in stunning nature. Located in Marusici on the Omis Riviera, just a 1/2 hour south of Split on the way to Dubrovnik, between both Omis and Makarska along the scenic Dalmatian coast. The hostel is close enough to Split and other larger towns to enjoy their nightlife, but also in a quieter location for those looking for serenity and a more relaxed pace.

Hostel Dalmatia

Hostel Dalmatia

The friendly living room

Marusici itself is divided into a lower and upper village, with the highway from Split dividing the town into the two parts. The upper village has a small church, and is home to Croatia’s 3rd largest olive oil producer, Orgula, which has tours and tastings in-season. Hostel Dalmatia is in the lower village, and two beautiful pebbly beaches – each with its own unique charm and character – are within a 5-minute walk from the hostel. There are lots of hidden gems in the nearby towns and villages, and the hostel owners love to share their knowledge with all the guests who become like family.

Hostel Dalmatia

Sunset from the rooftop

Hostel Dalmatia

One of the nearby beaches

The hostel has 3 private rooms, each with its own bathroom and balcony overlooking the Adriatic and the nearby island of Brac and surrounding mountains. There’s also a mixed-bed dorm room with its own bathroom and balcony as well. All rooms have air-conditioning and heating, and there is strong free wi-fi throughout the hostel. Enjoy the views from the huge terrace overlooking the sea, while also enjoying the laid-back vibe that all guests enjoy during their stay.

Best of all, the hostel is open year-round! To inquire in the off-season, message the hostel directly regarding off-season availability and rates (as the online calendar is offline during this time).

Hostel Dalmatia
Put Borka #20, 21318 Marusici
hosteldalmatia.com

Boutique Hostel Forum Review

Review: Boutique Hostel Forum, Zadar

Boutique Hostel Forum in Zadar is one of the hostels that’s joining a relatively new trend in Croatia and elsewhere – of the upmarket kind. For often times much less that even a half decent hotel, you get a fun and funky place to stay that’s usually rather new, has great facilities and is well located. What’s not to like?

Review Boutique Hostel Forum

Gorgeous view from a dorm room!

The Boutique Hostel Forum is all of these things. Located right on Kalelarga/Siroka ulica, you can’t miss it. Well, actually, you can as we did – stumbling off the bus from the airport, we wandered up and down Siroka ulica a few times before we finally found a door for the hostel. And then felt a bit stupid because it was quite obvious. (The hostel’s opposite the bellower of the Cathedral, in case you find yourself equally challenged.)

Two things strike you when you first enter – ORANGE and BLUE. It’s all very orange and blue. But it’s also very friendly – the young staff check you in quickly and give you a few pointers for the premises, including a little welcome leaflet that contains hostel information, plus a map of Zadar and a few local recommendations.

Private rooms are available but the shared, mixed dorm rooms are certainly comfortable enough – albeit compact – and offer a good deal of privacy.There’s two ‘bunk beds’ either side of the room, so if you and a friend are travelling you can easily have half a room without needing to mingle much with your dorm mates. Having said that, one side of the room is home to a small toilet and the shower room is on the other – so you do need traverse over to the other side occasionally. (I suppose you can always use the ‘public’ toilets in the hallways if you want.)

Review Boutique Hostel Forum

Left: dorm hallway Right: Floor hallway…. See – orange and blue!

A couple of chairs feature in each corner of the room, plus hooks for hanging up your coats and what-not, and each guest gets a large (really a good size) drawer unit to store their ultra-private but expensive and essential travel kit- iPads, cameras, Christian Louboutin heels. (Just joking on that last one, of course.) This inventive drawer opens with your room card key, which makes it pretty secure and easy to manage.

Each bed is more like a little cubby hole than merely a bunk bed. Inside your bed unit you’ve got a light, a mirror (for checking yourself out as soon as you wake up, I suppose), a LAN socket (?) and – oh yes! – two charge points. For every traveller’s most important needs are a) wifi and b) electrical sockets! There’s also plenty of other sockets dotted around the room too, in case you’ve decided to bring every electrical item with you on holiday. These cubby hole-type beds have their own blinds, which you can shut for complete privacy. The bed and bedding is more than comfortable, although the actual duvet is perhaps a little too thick for a typical Croatian summer. (Especially as – given the tight bed space – things get a little stuffy!)

Review Boutique Hostel Forum

A bunk bed

Review Boutique Hostel Forum

Breakfast is served! (Sort of)

The rooms actually overlook Kalelarga/Siroka ulica, and beyond that you can easily see The Forum and the twinkling Adriatic sea. It’s a simply gorgeous view! Don’t forget that as good a sight as you have of the outdoors, people outdoors have a good sight in…make sure you shut the blind before you, y’know, get into your PJs or whatever. (There’s actually a friendly warning by the window to this effect!)

There’s not a great deal of storage overall in the room – you have to squeeze your backpack/suitcase into the corner or hallway of the room as best as you can and there sure isn’t a good deal of space to ‘hang’ out. But you’re in the beautiful town of Zadar – who needs to hang about indoors?

There are, of course, a number of common rooms, including kitchens where you can store your own food or opt for breakfast if you want it, although a ‘breakfast in a bag’ (see below) is included in your room price. There’s an outdoor terrace out back, and a relatively large TV room – with two TVs – that reminded me a little of a children’s soft-play zone, with the bright colours and the sofa seating on different levels.

My favourite bit – waking up in the morning, pulling up the bed bunk blind and finding a breakfast bag had been delivered by my bunk. How did they do that? Who cares, there’s a sweet burek pastry inside! Pop down to the harbourfront for breakfast with a view.

Most importantly, the hostel’s wifi is strong and FAST – yay!

I’d highly recommend Boutique Hostel Forum – friendly, clean, comfortable, fun, decent value and superb location. Give it a try if you’re visiting Zadar!

Boutique Hostel Forum
Siroka ulica 20, Zadar
en.hostelforumzadar.com

Disclaimer: Visit Croatia stayed at Boutique Hostel Forum anonymously and paid for her own stay.