Visit Croatia Review: Plitvice Lakes in Winter

Plitvice Lakes National Park is one of the top sights to visit in Croatia. With its stunning interconnected lakes and waterfalls, gorgeous nature and animal inhabitants (although the larger ones are rarely seen by people), it’s a wonderful place to spend a day – or hopefully longer. The inland location, in the Lika region of Croatia, is also somewhere that many visitors wouldn’t otherwise experience, preferring the coast or Zagreb. Visiting the park provides a wonderful opportunity to experience another slice of Croatia. My latest visit to the National Park was last month, at the start of the coldest season of the year. So what was it like visiting the Plitvice Lakes in winter? Is it worth it? Find out what I thought!

Early arrival

To make the most of my day, I decided to take the first bus from Zagreb to the lakes. That meant getting up before 6am (normally, waaaay too early for me) to make the 6.45am bus. The bus, run by Prijevoz Knezevic, ended up being a little mini-bus to my surprise, but no matter. The comfy seats and decent leg room were just the thing for a snooze all the way to the lakes. (The mini-bus was half full, and one small group also disembarked at the lakes.)

The bus stopped right by Entrance 1, from where it’s possible to visit the Lower Lakes – which are the ones that are accessible in winter. It is also this entrance you need to visit Veliki Slap (Big Waterfall – the clue’s in the name, as it’s the tallest waterfall around these parts). Funnily enough, although you’re visiting the Lower Lakes, you enter the Park from up on high and first experience one of the most beautiful and most famous views of the National Park.

I headed to the ticket booth to snap up my €10 ticket (which would be €40 in the peak summer months!) and then talked to the helpful guy in the adjacent booth who explained what paths and trails were open and would be possible to visit. In this case, he told me Trails A and B would be able to be followed. I decided to opt for the longer Trail B (which they say takes 3 to 4 hours, and 4,000 metres in length).

And then, reader, my adventure began.

Oh, wow!

As I’ve already hinted, just a few steps beyond Entance 1 is one of the most the unbelieveable sights of the Plitvice Lakes, looking down onto three interconnected lakes (Milanovac, Gavanovac, and Kaludjerovac) and the waterfalls inbetween them. You might even stand yourself here, take in the amazing sight, snap a photo or three, and then head home. But you wouldn’t, because you’re not crazy, are you?

From here, I descended down the path in the direction of Veliki Slap. This waterfall is actually in the wrong direction from the trails, essentially down a dead end, but if he’s the biggest guy in town, you need to pay him a visit – right?

Two things quickly became apparent to me. The first was that it was literally freezing (I do mean literally), so I had to dress myself in all additional items of clothing I wasn’t yet wearing.

The second I realised was that by arriving at the Plitvice Lakes just before 9am in winter, I had totally won in life. As I descended down to the Lower Lakes, I didn’t pass a single other person. On my way to Veliki Slap and back, I passed two people – Plitvice Lakes maintenance workers. Heading further around the paths, heading in the direction of Lake Kozjak, I passed only a handful of people – maybe 10 at most? Having the Lakes essentially “to myself” was really such a magical experience that I can barely put into words. It was probably one of the best days of my life!

Heading round the wooden paths and admiring all the lakes and waterfalls, the lack of other visitors meant I could really go at my own pace. This also meant I could take in all the particular signs and points of interest I came across without being hurried along.

Time for a pit stop

On reaching Lake Kozak, I discovered a small souvenir shop and a small cafe. Of course, I made good use of both – I couldn’t leave without getting something for my fridge’s magnet collection. The cafe was relatively basic, but very warm and just the thing for a recharge, for both myself and my phone. It had a reasonable selection of hot drinks and offered things like sandwiches, burgers and chips and a few sweet treats. (Also, a fairly impressive range of Croatian spirits…I’m sure a shot would have been warming, but I didn’t go for it!) I would highly recommend a warming coffee and a slice of cheese strudel (savijača). Delicious.

On I go

The cafe and shop are right by the shore of Lake Kozak, which has an electric boat running across it. This in itself is another awesome experience – the boat glides softly and quietly over the lake as you take in the nature on both sides.

The boat was actually the largest number of people I saw at any one time during my Plitvice winter adventure, with about 15-20 people on board. A few seemed to be part of small tour groups, who I assumed to be undertaking private tours of the Park. (I certainly saw one couple clearly being guided around the lakes.)

I disembarked on the other side of the lake – past a sad, understandably closed ice-cream stall – to continue my journey on Trail B. Most of my fellow boatgoers seemed to disappear at this point (don’t worry, I don’t mean in a sinister way), so I assume they were heading up to Entrance 2, to be taken elsewhere.

Heading up the hill here, I encountered what’s called the “panoramic vehicle”, essentially a small coach with comically sized windows. (Comically big not small, although the latter would be more comical.) By this time, I was alone again, and the bus took me on a short journey to continue Trail B. Excitingly, this part of the Park had snow! Real snow, on the ground! Okay, only on the parts where no one walked, but as I had hoped to encounter Plitvice in snow (but delayed my visit for a few days to get better weather), it was a teensy bit exciting.

The bus dropped me off to continue my walk along the top of the canyon, towards Entrance 1, and I again encountered the lakes of Milanovac, Gavanovac, and Kaludjerovac from up high. By this time, the sun had properly emerged, and the temperature had gone up a few degrees, so the gorgeous lakes and waterfalls could be their best twinkly self.

And again on the paths back to Entrance 1, I only encountered one or two people at a time. Solo but not lonely at all. And no “fights” for the best photo viewpoint!

Conclusion – was visiting Plitvice Lakes in winter worth it?

Oh my goodness, yes. A million times yes.

Visiting the Plitvice Lakes is worth it any time of year, but in peak season, you’ll encounter so many crowds of people that it will be practically like a traffic jam to get around. Nevertheless, Plitvice in peak summer is still a sight to behold.

The different seasons give visitors a different Plitvice experience. Sure, winter means hardly any fellow visitors, but also shorter opening times and quite strict logistics in terms of where you can travel from and at what times. You also have to pay closer attention to the weather. I would have loved to have visited in proper snowfall (tempted as I was by social media posts!), but I’m aware that that could have meant a more treacherous journey around the Park. I don’t regret waiting a few days for a cold but eventually beautifully sunny, dry day!

So yes, please do visit the Plitvice Lakes in winter. It is absolutely worth it.

Getting to the Plitvice Lakes in winter

If travelling by public transport, it is easiest to reach the Plitvice Lakes in winter from Zagreb. With a journey time of around just two hours, and the fact that there are a number of buses per day, makes a day-trip very doable. Take a look at the Zagreb Bus Terminal website to look up bus schedules and to buy your tickets. Do also make your life easier and buy your return ticket before travel as well – you don’t have to use the same bus operator. Tickets are mostly electronic these days, and can be presented on your phone upon boarding.

You can also hire a car to make the relatively easy journey to the Lakes. Parking in the Lakes car park is free in winter (in December, January and February).

Alternatively, you may prefer an organised tour. Take a look at some of the possibilities below:

Opening Hours of the Plitvice Lakes in Winter

The park is open from 8am to 3pm, with both Entrance 1 and 2 generally open unless conditions prove otherwise. Ticket sales are only available until 1pm.

The electric boat over Lake Kozjak operates from 8am to 2.30pm/3pm (end time depends on the direction) in winter.

Good to Know

What to wear

Dress appropriately! And warmly! Winter at the park can be very cold indeed, so make sure you have appropriate winter clothing – which means many layers, and a proper winter jacket. A waterproof coat/jacket in addition wouldn’t be a bad idea, or at least take along a waterproof top layer that you can put on if you need.

Gloves are an absolute must, as are hiking shoes or boots or footwear that has a good grip when you’re walking. The paths can be wet and/or icy.

I personally didn’t have any hand warmers, but I saw a few other visitors with them. They seem like a good idea!

Eating, Drinking and Shopping

Right by entrance 1 is a small snack bar (think sandwiches, burgers, hot and cold drinks) for refreshment and a souvenir shop with Plitvice Lakes branding. Although the products comprised a mix of regular souvenir takeaways (t-shirts, baseball caps) and more pleasing items (carved wood ornaments, kids’ books on Plitvice), I found it to be rather expensive! I wanted to buy a book (in English) for my children, but baulked at the price of €15 for a very slim book!

I’ve mentioned the shop and cafe by Lake Kozjak for another pit stop. However, for a proper, hearty and very filling lunch, I would return to Entrance 1 and head over the footbridge to Licka Kuca (Lika House in English) Restaurant. Absolutely delicious food, typical of the Lika region, with very friendly service and a warm ambience. Recommended!

Getting there

If you’re using public transport – i.e. bus – you really do want to get to the lakes as early as possible. Although you’ll curse an impossibly early start, you’ll thank yourself when you get to the lakes and experience them!

Return buses might run a little late – they don’t start from Plitvice, but are travelling from further afield. Wait by the little wooden huts (make sure you’re at the hut that’s going in the right direction) and be patient!

Tickets

You can buy tickets for the National Park in advance online on the Plitvice Lakes National Park – Tickets webpage. But I wouldn’t bother, they are very, very unlikely to sell out in wintertime!

One thing to note is that you can buy a 2-day ticket for €15 in winter. If you’re driving yourself to the Lakes and staying locally, a two-day visit would be lovely.

More info

You can find out all the latest information on visiting the Park, including current conditions of trails and what can be visited, on the Plitvice Lakes National Park website.

Take a look at the Visit Croatia guide to Plitvice Lakes National Park.