Would we go back
to Dubrovnik in the winter again?
I think we would go back at any time of year with the
exception of maybe July/August when I would much prefer
to be out of the city and sitting under the shade of an
olive tree with a gentle sea breeze and tranquillity for
company.
Quote from 'The
Elaphites' guide book
"Come to the Elaphites in silence, do not break the
stillness and harmony of the untouched beauty of this
world's oasis. It is only allowed to crickets and
fireflies in summer, a gentle breeze, a sea-gull or to
a tired, sleepy fisherman after his night fishing."
More information
If anyone wants any more specific information about Sipan
or the other Elaphite Islands I will be happy to provide
it, but please remember I am biased, as Sipan is the only
place I have ever visited which I could call 'home'.
During the autumn of
1999 my wife and I started to think about how to celebrate the
millennium - well, how to escape from the hype surrounding the
celebrations in the UK. The other factor to take into consideration
was that as a IT Manager January 1st seemed like a good time to
avoid the office - well at least I was confident that we had removed
any risk of the Y2K problem from our systems! In the past
we have often spent a couple of winter weeks in the Canaries but
this year we thought we should do something different. As
we have been visiting the Elaphite Islands (just north of Dubrovnik)
for many years it was an obvious area for us to consider as within
reason we knew what to expect (well we thought we did!).
After spending a while browsing the various internet sites checking
on what would be open and trying to verify ferry times we decided
that a week in Dubrovnik would be a better bet (mainly because
the hotels on the Islands were closed and we didn't fancy self
catering). We eventually decided on the Hotel Kompas in
Dubrovnik as being suitable for us. The criteria we used were
- heating, party on New Years Eve, reasonable standard of room,
location in relation to the city and Gruz harbour, facilities
in case of bad weather. An email from the Dubrovnik Hotels Group
dubrovnikhotels@du.tel.hr
confirmed availability but advised us to book early. At
this stage we thought we would be the only people wanting to go
to Croatia at New Year - wrong!
A telephone call to Marie at Bond
Tours confirmed how wrong we were. Croatia Airlines
flights were nearly fully booked! We managed to get a flight
on Boxing Day with a return on 3 January which involved a long
wait at Zagreb homebound.
Sunshine in London, snow
in Zagreb
A relaxed flight on an Airbus 320 from Heathrow to Zagreb was
rather spoilt by a comedian in the Croatia Airlines catering department
who decided that we would all like cold fish fingers and cold
vegetables (cauliflower and carrots) for lunch. Snow and
thick cloud at Zagreb airport was a change from the bright sunshine
we experienced when leaving London. Two minutes across the
airport terminal and we were ready to board the ATR42 for the
flight down to Dubrovnik. Sandra (my wife) was a little
apprehensive about the ATR as the smallest aircraft she had flown
on before was a 737. Soon after take off music started to
play through the loud speakers. At this stage we both burst
out laughing as it was the instrumental version of 'I did it my
way' which has the lyrics amongst others approximating to 'the
end is nigh as I face the final curtain'.
We made it to Dubrovnik with no problems and were
promptly collected by the Bond Tours agent and taken to the Hotel.
The journey in the dark was quite impressive as the city was lit
up for the celebrations. Dubrovnik resembled a fairy tale
city with the twinkling lights and soft floodlights illuminating
the massive protective walls.
Exploring the old city
For the first two days the hotel was very quiet with only about
20 people staying there. The weather was quite mild, but
cloudy with a small amount of rain falling mainly at night.
We spent this time walking and exploring the area. In the
past we have never spent a lot of time in Dubrovnik as we find
it too hot to walk around in the summer heat, but during the winter
months it is great and the people watchers still sit out at the
cafes on the Stradun with their designer sunglasses and the cups
of coffee that last for about two hours.
A particular rewarding visit was to the maritime
museum were we spent so long that we stayed beyond the closing
time without realising. One notable display referred to
a ship which had sunk not to far away from where we live, so I
now have the task of attempting to see what information I can
get about it here and tying it up with the information in Dubrovnik.
A visit to the Desa Gallery in the Lazareti was well worth it
if only to see the wonderful hand made articles such as lace and
embroidery produced by the wonderful ladies there. Email: desa@du.tel.hr
The closer we got to New Year's Eve the more people
there seemed to be in the hotels, and by New Year's Eve all the
hotels in the Dubrovnik area appeared to be full. We did
not see any other English people about, but we were told that
there were a few staying at one of the hotels in Babin Kuk and
in the Hotel Excelsior. Guests from Slovenia and Bosnia
occupied the majority of the hotels, but all nationalities mixed
well and a great time was had by all. The food at the Hotel
Kompas was excellent and the only problem was getting the motivation
to do some exercise to make room for more food!
What a great party!
We had been planning to see in the new year with the celebrations
that were taking place along the Stradun in the old City, but
excess food and alcohol got in the way and we stayed with the
hotel celebrations which ran from 1930 in the evening until 0430
the next morning. The hotel ran various functions on New
Years Day including a marathon, a dancing competition and a prize
draw. A good range of prizes were available ranging from
various holidays (including one which was for a two day stay in
Sarajevo) to a roasted whole suckling pig, complete with a tray
to carry it on. Just how I was going to carry it home if
I won it I don't know. As it turned out we didn't win a
prize, but it was great fun and good practice in working with
Croatian numbers.
Hotel Kompas
Tel +385 20 435 777
Fax +385 20 435877
Hotel Sipan Tel +385 20 75 8000
Fax 385 20 75 80 04
Jadrolinija Dubrovnik Office
(they do speak English and have replied to faxes as
well!)
Tel +385 20 418 000
Fax +385 20 418111
Internet access
in Dubrovnik: DuNet Club
Put Republike 7
room 112
Tel +385 20 356 894
email dunet-club@hotmail.com
(Close to the main bus station - next to Dubravacka
Bank)
Guides There are various guides
to Dubrovnik and the surrounding areas available at
the kiosks (Tisak) and bookshops. These are mostly
new editions or completely new books and not the pre
1991 editions that were still being sold up to last
year.
There is a free city guide
published several times each year and is available from
most hotels in the area. Joze at the Croatian
National
Tourist Office in London (email: info@cnto.freeserve.co.uk)
may have a limited supply of these and other brochures
- please check.
Guides available
in UK include: Croatia - Lonely Planet
ISBN 0864426461
Croatia Adriatic Coast -
Nelles Guide ISBN 3886183955
The Croatian Adriatic -
Naklada Naprijed ISBN 9531780978