I
looked hard for something -- a bad mood, an edge of violence or
trouble -- that might caution against a visit to the Croatian
coast. My antenna picked up nothing -- indeed, as beach resorts
go, Zlatni rat was one of the lowest-key places I've ever visited...For
now, Brac is the secret bargain-basement escape of Slovene tourists,
and I counted myself lucky to be among them. But I doubt it will
be long before Croatia returns to the travel agent's A list.
Daisann McLane, New York Times, December
26th 1999
To read the rest of the article, click here!
Q. Our parents used
to holiday in Croatia (when it was Yugoslavia) and they always
enjoyed themselves. They'd now like to take my husband and me
plus our two children, Mark and Helen, who'll be eight and six
next year. Which resort would you advise for our family (nothing
too large or noisy) and what are the standards like after the
civil war?
A. Croatia may not
seem immediately obvious as a family holiday destination since
sandy beaches are in meagre supply and it lacks hi-tech attractions
such as the water worlds and theme parks you'd find in Spain and
other popular destinations. However, it has a lot going for it;
ironically, perhaps, after the horrors of the civil war, Croatia
is one of the safest and most relaxing Mediterranean countries
for tourists. Prices are reasonable, and the people are welcoming
and delighted to have British visitors again. And the waters are
some of the cleanest and most unpolluted in the world.
Your parents may well not notice a
great change in standards of food, accommodation and service;
hotels in resorts - which, apart from some in Dalmatia, were not
touched by the tragic fighting - have largely been refurbished
and, as before, are comfortable without being luxurious. Some
are rather large, uninspiring blocks with somewhat slow service,
a legacy of the country's Communist past. I have never been an
advocate of hotel food in Croatia, which I find plain and monotonous
(though it may suit children); eating in restaurants is, in my
opinion, a more cheerful option.
Last year, members of my own family,
with active seven- and nine- year-old boys, were looking for a
reasonably priced destination in high season without crowds but
with some historical interest for the adults. They spent a week
in Rovinj, the old Venetian port, which they all found quite delightful.
The old centre was enchanting, with lots of sightseeing nearby.
Pedestrianised walkways surround the harbour, and though there
was no beach immediately outside the hotel, they hired bikes for
picnics in small, pleasant coves in the woods nearby and bought
cheap "jelly" shoes for bathing locally. A word of warning
though: do check if your parents have any mobility problems, as
some streets are quite steep.
Their most expensive - and admittedly
tiring - outing was a day in Venice; it cost them £30 each, but
they all though it was well worth the price. An excellent bus
service also took them to Porec, which is much bigger, with more
organised attractions for kids. Although they said it was fine
for an outing, the place would have been too busy for them to
stay at. Red Island, 20 minutes from Rovinj by ferry, became the
children's playground.
A week at the Hotel Park, opposite
the marina, with Thomson Holidays (0990 502555) costs £275-£295
half board for adults and £139-£299 for children sharing your
rooms.
The Makarska Riviera, between Split
and Dubrovnik - one of Croatia's most beautiful stretches of coast,
with endless white pebble beaches and pine and olive trees to
provide shade - might also appeal. The gentle slope makes the
beach highly suitable for children and indifferent swimmers.
The family-friendly resorts here include
Makarska itself, still a working port but with a pleasant, lively
promenade and historic old town, markets, a fun fair and lots
of eateries, and the smaller and quieter fishing villages of Tucepi
and Brela.
A week's half board with Holiday Options
(01444 244499) at the Hotel Meteor; close to the beach and on
the stretch where you find the evening stalls and restaurants,
costs about £319-£419 per adult and £249-£289 for each child.
If you are determined beach-hunters,
Croatia's most spectacular is the vast, golden shingle sandbar,
almost 580 yards long, known as the Golden Horn. It juts out into
the water at Bol on the island of Brac, the large island opposite
Makarska. Bol, a medieval seaport well known for its seafood (and
wine), has cultural sights that include a Baroque palace and a
Dominican monastery with an original Tintoretto.
A week's half board at the Hotel Bretanide
in Brac, also with Holiday Options, costs £329-£459 per adult,
and £249-£309 for each child. It may also be worth getting the
brochures of these tour operators, which feature Croatia: Transun
(01865 798888); Balkan Holidays (0171-543 5555); Bond Tours (0181-786
8511); Direct Line Holidays (0181-239 3399).
The Independent, 2nd October 1999
RABAC, CROATIA
WHY? Croatia is still
suffering from the the side effects of war, despite the fact that
the Foreign Office declared it to be safe way back in 1992. But
the Brits still give it a wide berth, which is just one good reason
why it should appeal to John and Ghislaine. Also, by September
its Italian clientele will have driven home across the border,
as will have most of the German visitors. The Woods won't have
it all to themselves, but they should be more than happy with
the general demographics.
HOW? The couple would
fly to Pula from Birmingham (on a Tuesday charter) and head for
the eastern coast of the heart-shaped Istrian peninsula. The pace
of Rabac, about an hour's drive from the airport, is relaxed as
well as Brit free, its style not unlike a small-scale Sorrento.
The seafront is lined with bars and restaurants (lots of Italian
influence in the local dishes), and there are plenty of watersports,
including parascending and water-skiing, as well as boat trips
promising a fair chance of dolphins. Among the most popular excursions
is a catamaran trip to Venice (two hours each way), as well as
the nearby city of Pula to see the almost-intact third-century
Roman amphitheatre, where, like the better-known arena in Verona,
opera performances are staged.
Most of Rabac's beds are in hotels,
but Thomson fea-tures the unfortunately named "Pluton A Apartments",
an aparthotel on a hillside some 150m from the beach (pebbly but
excellent snorkelling), and 2.5km from the town centre. All rooms
have full kitchenette facilities and there is an à la carte restaurant
on the property as well as two pools. During the school holidays
it is popular with families, but should be relatively child free
come September.
HOW MUCH? Flying from
Birmingham on September 7, the Woods would each pay £400 for a
week, plus an additional £109 each for a hire car, booked through
Thomson's Summer Sun brochure, 0990-502555.
The Sunday Times, 15th August 1999
It's business
as usual along Croatia's beautiful coastline. Island hopping in
the Adriatic is the best way to see the country's historic towns
and quiet coves.
Sunday Business, May 16th 1999
And it seems
a shame that this republic [Croatia], with an array of picturesque
islands dotted on the Adriatic coastline, is overlooked as a holiday
spot by so many.
Steve Dennis, The Mirror, May 1st 1999
Cheaper than
other Mediterranean destinations, Croatia also offers quiet and
unspoiled charm.
Bournemouth Daily Echo, April 10th 1999
How many times
do you have to be told? Croatia is the best-value holiday in Europe
right now. Dubrovnik...remains one of the continent's most stunning
and well-preserved jewels...the climate and people are wonderfully
warm, welcoming and Mediterranean.
Esquire, February 1999
Dubrovnik is
amazing, the first city I have been to which equals and then defeats
every guidebook adjective I have read. We entered into a magical
world. No wonder the Serbs were bitter to see it go.
Telegraph Magazine, January 2nd 1999
The Croatian
capital of Zagreb is now rediscovering its glory days as Europe's
most exquisite city east of Paris...People here consider it their
national duty to have a good time and they want you to do the
same.
Elle, UK Edition, January 1999
|